MIYAJIMA, June 26 — Named one of Japan’s top three scenic spots, Miyajima is a tiny island that packs a great number of attractions and picturesque sights, making it a compact destination on its own or as a side trip from Hiroshima. You can get a quick overview of its key landmarks within three hours but it is best to set aside a full day to discover her multiple charms. Here are 12 things to do, see and taste at this serene island.
Stay at a traditional ryokan
Your bed is a thick futon laid over tatami mats, the washroom could be an outdoor hot spring and meals are elaborate multi-course spreads called kaiseki. These are some of the things you can expect at Japan’s traditional hotels, called ryokan, which are usually family-run businesses handed down through generations. Miyajima has no shortage of these charming lodgings for you to call home for a night or two, all within easy walking distance to the island’s attractions.
Meet the deer
To call the free-roaming shika (deer) of Miyajima is a bit of a misnomer because they’re really quite tame, sauntering up to people trustingly and happily feeding off your hand. The delicate creatures are usually the first things visitors disembarking from the ferries will see, wandering through the streets or resting under the shade of trees. You do want to be careful with your belongings when nearing them as they’ve been known to grab small items to chew on. There used to be small stalls selling deer food but feeding has been banned since 2008, in an effort to get the animals to readjust to the wild and fend for themselves. In Japanese culture, deer are considered sacred and to Shinto followers, messengers of the Gods.
Watch the sun set at O-Torii Gate
Standing at 16.6 metres-high and weighing about 60 tonnes, this famous torii gate has graced many postcards, posters and promotional images for not only Miyajima but Japan. A National Important Cultural Property, it was erected in 1875 of cypress bark, camphor and cedar, and symbolises the boundary between two worlds — humans and spirits. It’s coated in vermillion lacquer, for spiritual and practical reasons: The colour is said to ward off evil spirits while the lacquer protects against corrosion.
For visitors, the appeal of this eighth O-Torii Gate in Japan is that it stands in water, in the Seto Inland Sea, and during high tide at dusk, appears to be floating against the sunset. At low tide, you can actually walk right up to the gate and if you want to sail through it, Aqua-net Hiroshima runs night cruises on board the Daisan Mikasamaru that will cruise you slowly in between the glowing pillars.
Offer your prayers at 
Itsukushima Shrine
The O-Torii Gate is part of the Itsukushima Shrine that’s dedicated to the goddesses of the sea, traffic safety, fortune and accomplishment. Sporting the same bright vermillion facade, this complex of 17 buildings resting on stilts over water sits strategically between the Gate and the majestic Mount Misen, and was inscribed as a World Cultural Heritage site in 1996.
It will take a good hour or so to explore the entire shrine, observe the details of its Shinden-style architecture, and pay your respects according to Shinto traditions. Visitors wishing to do the latter must start by purifying their mind and body at the Haraiden (Purification Hall).
Ask for blessings at the temples
Besides Itsukushima Shrine, the island is home to many smaller temples and pagodas, each with its own storied history and significance. Senjokaku was built as a library to house Itsukushima’s Buddhist literature and also as a venue for Shinto ceremonies. Daisho-in Temple was closely linked to the Imperial family, with Emperor Meiji making it his residence at one point. Zonko-ji Temple is frequented by those who have problems with their vision, while women hoping to get pregnant make a beeline for Tokuji-ji Temple.
Equally interesting is the varied architectural styles that can be observed at each and that date back several hundred years. The striking Gojunoto (Five-Storied Pagoda), for example, is peppered with Chinese design elements while Omoto Shrine lives up to its name as a showcase of the unique Omoto style whereby the roof is crowned by 18 layers of shingles.
Hike up Mount Mission
For the fit or those looking for a physical adventure, hike up the sacred Mount Misen, where local legends say some Gods reside. Choose between three routes, depending on what you’d like to see, that take between 90 minutes to two hours each and worth every breathless step as the view from the summit is unparalleled.
Or you can take the easier alternative, by riding up on the ropeway that will deposit you at the Shishiwa Observatory where you can feast on 360-degree panoramas of the Inland Sea and its many islands. From there, you can hike to the summit, stopping along the way to visit the mountain’s ‘Seven Wonders’. Among them is the Kiezu-no-hi, a spiritual flame that’s been kept alight for 1,200 years and the mysterious sounds of the clappers that can be heard at midnight.
The well-marked trails are fairly wide and with the cool, crisp weather up on the mountain, it is a pleasant hike though is by no means a walk in the park — you do need to have a reasonably good level of stamina.
Buy miniature rice paddles
Browse the souvenir shops that line Omotesando Shopping Street and the most commonly available gift item you will come across is the rice paddle, from miniatures fashioned into keychains to gigantic, decorative pieces that are meant as lucky charms. The latter began as a tradition during the Kansei period, nearly two centuries ago, when soldiers would write their names on paddles and leave them at Itsukushima Shrine. Those who survived the battle would return to the shrine and collect their rice paddle as a memento of victory.
Stroll between century-old houses (Machiya Street)
Omotesando is where visitors tend to converge as there’s a good selection of shops and restaurants. Running parallel to the curved shopping street is the much quieter Machiya Street, where old folk houses host local businesses and small art galleries. These, however, are no mere homes but machiya, traditional wooden townhouses built in Japan’s vernacular architecture that are most famously associated with Kyoto. It’s literally a walk down memory lane.
Have an oyster feast
Oyster farming has been practised in Miyajima since over 300 years ago. If you’re a fan of this shellfish, you are spoilt for choice as it stars in many of the island’s gourmet offerings. Bite into a freshly-fried doughnut holding two plump molluscs in a thick curry sauce, enjoy it grilled over charcoal, as teppanyaki, tempura, in a wholesome bento set or over springy udon or ramen. Hardcore fans should make a date with the annual Miyajima Oyster Festival every February.
Take home some Momiji-manju
Inspired by the maple trees that populate the island’s Momijidani Park, local confectioners created what has become Miyajima’s signature snack. The Momiji-manju is a simple maple leaf-shaped sponge cake originally filled with sweet red beans but has since spawned numerous variants including cream cheese, chocolate and green tea.
Snack on street food
You can sit down for a proper meal or fill up on hot snacks sold by small street kiosks. Fish cakes are among the most popular, shaped like sausages or maple leaves, and come in interesting flavours such as mentaiko. Sweet potatoes are another highlight, eaten on their own or as toppings over ice-cream and yogurt.
Have a coffee at Sarasvati
From name to execution, Sarasvati certainly stands out among Miyajima’s food and beverage offerings, which mostly focus on Japanese favourites, with specialty coffees and Western delights. Sarasvati’s beans are sourced from all parts of the world and roasted in-house so you just have to follow the aroma to find this minimalist cafe on Miyajima-cho, on the way to the Five-Storied Pagoda.
From Hiroshima, there are several ways to get to Miyajima. The most direct way is to board an Aqua-net Hiroshima ferry from the Peace Memorial Park. Known as the World Heritage Sea Route (2,000 Yen [RM78] for one-way and 3,600 Yen [RM140] for return tickets), it runs every half hour and each trip takes 45 minutes.
Vivian Chong is a freelance writer-editor and an avid traveller. Follow her adventures at http://thisbunnyhops.com
