KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 19 — For years, the international beauty market has neglected the diversity among its customers who come from various backgrounds with skin in various colours.

The unprecedented success and impact delivered by pop star Rihana’s brand Fenty Beauty — resulting in the brand being valued at over US$72 million (RM3 billion) after just one month of sales — have turned the attention of many towards the need for inclusivity, especially for those with darker skin.

In Malaysia, Isma Hussein, 32, has been attempting to capture the diversity of women since August this year with her own line of vegan-friendly and cruelty-free Morena Cosmetics, and its “Empowering Foundation” range.

Isma told Malay Mail Online the idea for the brand was born in November last year following her market research that found significant absence of products that cater to darker-skinned women.

“From a business point of view, I saw that there was a really big gap in the market. I interviewed people, and I asked them where they buy their foundation powders and it was often some designer brand that’s far too expensive for their earnings. 

“Most drugstore brands also do not really have brands for dark and darker skinned women, so this was a perfect environment to introduce Morena,” said Isma.

Comfortable in your own tanned skin

The name Morena itself is Spanish for “tanned” — which she said reflected the pride Spanish people have for their various olive skin tones.

It was also in reference to Isma’s time studying in the European country, where she said she found a deeper sense of appreciation for her own self, learning to be comfortable in her own skin.

The brand currently offers five shades, with their names being veiled references to female heroes: Michelle, Eartha, Malala, Chandra, and Nicol. Michelle is the darkest shade of the five.

 

 

The products also provide flawless and full coverage, as well as a concealing effect, with anti-humidity properties to prevent the foundation from “melting” under heat, she said.

They are specially formulated to blend smoothly into tanned and dark Asian skin, while shielding the complexion with SPF 35 sun protection.

“People who want to be fair, they are not my target market. To me, if you like them, there is nothing wrong, but it becomes dangerous when you want to change yourself to be like them,” said Isma.

“I don’t know what it’s like to be dark skinned, but I know how to deal with a lot of self-esteem issues, especially coming from an industry where people chastise you with words like: ‘Come on, you think you’re pretty? You’re so ugly!’

“So I know what it’s like to have barriers in your mind,” the former actress and current corporate consultant said.

Affordable and inclusive

Isma said she set the price at RM79.90 each in order to make the range of foundation more affordable.

And the response so far has been encouraging, Isma said, even from international customers — with interest from as far away as Colombia, Nigeria and the African continent.

“I have been getting really, really good response, especially from the local ethnic Indians here. They are like: ‘Finally! There’s something for us!’ 

“I have also been getting a lot from overseas, but I am going to focus on changing the game here in Malaysia first,” she added.

Will there be more than foundation in the future? Isma said yes, but not before she is done with what she called “solving problems” of dark-skinned women.

“I have a lot of products in the pipeline, but the main focus would be solving the problems faced by tanned and dark-skinned women, because entrepreneurship is all about solving problems. 

“If you are not solving problems, you are not relevant. Then why are you there?” she added.

Morena Cosmetics can be bought from online beauty sales portal mySmink.