KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 31 — For seasoned tour guide Fuad Fahmy, there’s no place like home when it comes to having an unforgettable holiday experience.
In 2016, the Kampung Baru native started bringing travellers around the country after spending decades working as a travel agent and taking busloads of Malaysians overseas for guided tours.
His latest offering involves taking small groups on a one-of-a-kind walk through Chow Kit, an area in Kuala Lumpur once notorious for being the city’s seedy underbelly.
Named after the city councillor and businessman Loke Chow Kit, the neighbourhood is brimming with traditional merchants, a bustling wet market, and rich historical significance that traces its roots back to the early 20th century.
The area gained prominence recently when The New York Times caught on to Chow Kit’s nostalgic allure, having listed it at number 20 on its list of “52 Places to Go to in 2020”.
Malay Mail had a chance to join one of Fuad’s tours which begins along Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, a street dubbed as the “number one road” in KL during the colonial era thanks to its prime location.
As we pass by shophouses built in the early 1900s, Fuad said that Chow Kit has managed to scrub up over the past few years and has charmed tourists with its old-school appeal.
“Tourists see Chow Kit as a very colourful place. It presents a different side of KL because it’s not a conventional, touristy kind of attraction.
“During the early 2000s, people would get scared at the thought of walking in Chow Kit as it was filled with bad hats until about 15 years ago.
“It’s safer now and there are good pavements with fencing to prevent snatch thefts as well as increased police presence,” said Fuad.
The 47-year-old added that foreigners are always impressed at the melting pot of cultures that form Chow Kit and Kampung Baru’s unique, multi-ethnic heritage.
“They’re quite amazed to see Chinese and Sikh temples in a Malay kampung.
“What many tourists know about Malaysia is that it’s an Islamic country, but then they discover that it’s not as ‘closed’ as they thought based on what the media portrayed.”
A feast for the senses
As we venture into Pasar Chow Kit, our senses are hit with the vibrant colours of fresh produce, the scent of crisp veggies and juicy fruits, and the sound of merchants shouting out their wares to customers.
Fuad said the low prices of meat, fruit, and vegetables at the market are huge draws for tourists looking for a good bargain.
The market opened in 1955 and has since evolved into a thriving community where one can find almost everything under the sun, from traditional medicine and herbs, ayam pencen (old chicken) for rendang, and flowers for witch doctors to give the restorative mandi bunga (flower baths).
Many stalls, especially those selling kuih and other sweet treats, will be sold out by the afternoon.
Tucked behind the market are a variety of scrumptious eats including noodles, kaya toast with coffee, and the famous pork nasi lemak as seen in the Netflix series Jason’s Market Trails.
Despite walking through Pasar Chow Kit countless times, Fuad said the lively atmosphere means he can expect a different surprise in store whenever he visits.
“It’s more comfortable to shop here now because it used to be so cramped and hot. The lanes could ngam ngam fit only one person.
“Although the track remains the same, the experience of walking through Chow Kit market is different every time for me. There’s always something new to discover.”
Apart from gastronomical delights, Pasar Chow Kit is also the go-to place for locals to pick up miscellaneous items such as wedding door gifts, kitchen appliances, fake flowers, and more.
A merchant selling vinyl and rubber laminates for floors and tables said she has been looking after her store for more than 40 years but is struggling to find someone who can take over in the future.
“The business used to be run by my father-in-law. My kids are grown-up now with their own children but they want to pursue other careers.
“They prefer office jobs with nine-to-five working hours,” she said.
Her dilemma is echoed by several traders in the market, many of whom are in their golden years and struggling to find a successor.
Keeping heritage alive
Having lived in Kampung Baru and Chow Kit for more than 40 years, Fuad says that the neighbourhood has undergone a major facelift in the past few decades.
He hopes that the area’s cultural and historical significance can be granted Unesco World Heritage Site status one day to guarantee that its unique facade won’t be stripped away with time.
Until then, Fuad said that Chow Kit’s landscape changes significantly every five years or so with more hotels and skyscrapers popping up.
“The personality of Chow Kit is still there as we speak but who knows what will happen in the next five years.
“I hope this stretch of Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman will stay the same, at least. Chow Kit has so much history and character. It would be a waste to lose all of that.”
On our way back, Fuad draws our attention to a rusty electrical pole standing next to one of the many pre-war shophouses that line the street.
Dating back as early as 1945, it’s a relic from the past that Fuad fears will be dismantled along with many traditional businesses in the area as gentrification takes over.
“I hope Kuala Lumpur City Hall (DBKL) won’t come here to take it down,” he said.
As the neighbourhood gets revamped, hotels like The Chow Kit by the Ormond Group have carefully designed their brand to integrate organically with their surroundings.
Ormond Group chief executive officer Gareth Lim is a firm believer in forging meaningful connections with the locals, a philosophy that’s behind the hotel’s decision to source furniture for its rooms from a rattan shop down the road, for example.
Apart from offering guests a chance to join Fuad’s walking tours, hotel staff are also trained to keep their finger on the pulse to recommend the best local experiences to guests.
By doing so, Lim hopes that The Chow Kit can offer something authentically Malaysian to travellers who are eager to see a different side of Kuala Lumpur.
“If you look at people’s idea of a modern Asian city, it’s shopping malls and glass towers.
“You can get that in places like Bukit Bintang, KLCC, and countries like Hong Kong and Singapore. There’s nothing special about it.
“What I like about Chow Kit is that it’s a very authentic experience of what KL is. It’s multi-ethnic, it’s not just modern skyscrapers and shopping malls. It’s a mash of everything,” he told Malay Mail.
If you’d like to experience Chow Kit on one of Fuad’s walking tours, visit The Chow Kit’s website for more information.
