NEW YORK, March 29 ― The monkfish ranks among the most fierce-looking of sea creatures, with an ugly mug only a monkfish’s mother could love. The horrid face with its wide, round smile reveals two enormous bear-trap-like rows of razor-sharp teeth pointing backward. This presents a clear hazard for unwary small fish that happen to be in proximity when said monkfish has its mouth open. They swim in naively but can’t swim out.
Fear not. We rarely see a whole monkfish. Instead, fishmongers offer trimmed monkfish “tails,” or monktails, since the thick fillets are tapered, somewhat resembling lobster tails. Monkfish was once known as poor man’s lobster; recipes for it advise the cook to sprinkle the fish with salt, pepper and paprika, broil it and serve with drawn butter. Its cooked texture is similar to a lobster’s, too, but real lobster it will never be. (Still, what fish wouldn’t taste good prepared this way and dipped in warm butter?)
Monkfish is firm-fleshed, lean. “Meaty” is the usual operative word here, not tender like sole or flaky like cod. In France, it is called gigot de mer — as meaty as a leg of lamb. To me, a larger monkfish tail looks like a pork tenderloin, ready to roast.
So why not treat it like a simple roast? Using a restaurant chef’s technique, I wrap larger tails with butcher’s twine, making them compact for even cooking. But you can skip this step and get on fine.
Rub it with olive oil and season it generously with salt and pepper. For a southern Mediterranean feel, lay the tail on a bed of aromatic thyme and rosemary branches; tuck lemon slices around it along with a handful of olives. Then put it in a hot oven (425 to 450 degrees) until it is lightly browned and fully cooked, but juicy, 15 to 20 minutes, depending upon size. Then, as with other roasts, let it rest a few minutes before carving it into thick slices.
Serve your monkfish with a smear of black olive tapenade. The lemon, herbs and olives all complement the meatiness of the fish. If monkfish is unavailable, consider swordfish, grouper, halibut, sea bass or snapper. They qualify as meaty, too.
And to drink ...
Meaty monkfish generally goes well with a substantial white or even some reds. But the slather of olive paste calls for a tangy white. Good fino sherry would be ideal if you already have a taste for it, and if you don’t, why not experiment? Or try a grassy, mineral sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley, or a Vouvray, as long as it is dry. (This is not always so, even when it’s labeled “sec,” or dry, so check with your merchant.) A rich, dry rosé would be delicious, like one from Bandol or one of the superb idiosyncratic producers in Provence, like Château Simone or Clos Cibonne. Champagne, too, would be great. — Eric Asimov
Monkfish Roasted With Herbs and Olives
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 1 hour
1 1/2 pounds monkfish fillet, preferably in 1 or 2 large pieces (or use halibut, swordfish, grouper, sea bass or snapper)
Salt and pepper
Thyme sprigs
Rosemary sprigs
A few fresh bay leaves (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 small lemon, thinly sliced
12 whole black or green olives, pitted if desired
1/4 cup pitted black olives, such as niçoise, Gaeta or kalamata
1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced
1. Tie the monkfish fillets with butcher’s twine at 2-inch intervals. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Line the bottom of an earthenware or other low-sided baking dish with thyme and rosemary sprigs. Tuck bay leaves here and there, if using. Lay the fish on top of the herbs and drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Scatter the lemon slices and whole olives over fish. Set aside for 30 minutes to marinate. Heat oven to 425 degrees.
3. Meanwhile, make the olive paste: Put pitted black olives, garlic and 1/4 cup olive oil in a small food processor and pulse to a rough paste. (Alternatively, chop olives finely with a knife and stir together with garlic and oil.)
4. Roast fish, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until lightly browned on top and firm to the touch. Check with a paring knife to be sure fish is cooked through. Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
5. Snip twine with scissors and remove from fish. Cut fish into 4 portions and spoon some of the roasted lemon slices and whole olives over the top. Dab each piece with a teaspoon of olive paste, or pass olive paste separately. ― The New York Times
