KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 29 — What lies behind the door?
At first, nothing suggests a café, let alone a roastery. A tall, narrow wooden board stands sentry-like, its muted grain interrupted only by what is either the shop’s name or an illustration of mountains (or quite possibly both).
A lone potted plant adds a touch of life. The true entrance — a glass door, dark and discreet — conceals what awaits within. It’s a door you might miss if you’re not looking carefully.
Step inside and the aroma hits first — freshly roasted beans, nutty and floral, teasing the senses.
This is Ari Roastery, a little hideaway in Taman Desa. A small, beautifully balanced space that is equal parts coffee bar, roastery and retail nook.
Inside, every inch matters. Shelves are lined with bags of lightly roasted beans from around the world. Coffee gear — drippers, filters, cups — share the remaining shelves.
Two baristas keep the café operation flowing in an elegant duet while the roasting continues behind closed doors. One takes orders, offering quiet recommendations; the other brews with measured precision.
The menu is familiar — espresso, flat white, long black, pour-over — but the flavours are anything but ordinary.
The ALO Ethiopia caught our attention, its beans processed using the JH natural fermentation technique. It’s a method that isolates native bacteria and yeast to accentuate a coffee’s terroir rather than overwhelm it. The resulting cup brims with clarity — bright notes of blackcurrant and ripe mango dancing lightly on the palate.
The Nyeri Kamoini PB, a washed Kenyan, follows with balance and grace. Its sweetness — brown sugar laced with hints of preserved fruit — lingers, like the memory of a story well told.
Both coffees are roasted on the lighter side, their subtlety and precision best appreciated through a slow, deliberate sip.
The barista tells us the shop has been around for four years now, though until recently, its presence remained mostly unannounced.
Much of the shoplot is devoted to their roastery in the rear, the heart of their business. The café upfront seems almost incidental — a front row seat to their quiet craft.
When we ask about the name, she smiles and explains that it’s inspired by mountains. Perhaps it’s a nod to the Japanese saying人生山あり谷あり (jinsei yama ari tani ari), “Life has mountains and valleys.”
Fitting, really. Every cup of coffee, every conversation here, has its own rises and falls, its own ebb and flow.
Taman Desa has changed since we last called it home. The skyline now bristles with cranes; new condos rise seemingly all the time. Beloved spots like Await Café — a local stalwart for more than a decade — have shuttered, their absence still felt.
So when our friend Chai, who still lives in the neighbourhood, suggested Ari Roastery, having stumbled upon it by chance, we were keen to revisit old grounds.
Smaller than most cafés, the intimate space encourages conversation. It’s not a place to bury oneself behind a laptop; it’s a rare chance for real connection.
We share cakes and scones to go with our brews. The Carrot Cake is moist, its sweetness tempered, while the Lemon Cake offers a lively tang beneath its simple white glaze.
The Earl Grey Chocolate Scone, served with proper clotted cream, feels decidedly British. Its counterpart, the Coconut Scone, arrives with a local twist — fragrant kaya. Both are delightful studies in contrast and complement.
Before leaving, both Chai and I pick up an Explorer’s Pack to take home — three Ethiopian beans that promise different adventures in the cup.
The Hamasho Kebena Adnan, naturally processed, bursts with flavours of Kyoho grapes and blueberries. The Duwancho, another natural, carries tropical whispers of passion fruit and melon.
And the washed Gara Agena is a quiet marvel — beginning with orange-like acidity while hot, then softening to lemon tea and honey as it cools.
Later, when we brew these beans in our separate kitchens, miles apart, we find ourselves comparing notes. “This one’s super sweet today,” one of us says. “Try it with a slightly lower temperature,” the other replies.
The door you might miss could well be an opportunity to keep the conversation going.
A shared ritual, wherever you find yourselves. An invitation to pause, to listen, to taste.
In a world that rushes ever forward, it is a reminder that some connections are best savoured slowly, like a good cup of coffee.
Ari Roastery
11, Jalan 1/109E,
Taman Desa Business Park, KL.
Open daily 8:30am-5pm
Phone: 011-6596 3361
IG: https://www.instagram.com/ariroastery/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/ariroastery/
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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