BANGKOK, March 15 — Majestic white temples with multi-tiered golden roofs. Malls and markets selling everything under the sun.
A massage haven, from tiny roadside parlours to entire sanctuaries frequented by streams of tour buses.
And perhaps some of the most delicious street food in the world — from chargrilled moo bing (pork skewers) to sweet or savoury kha nom bueng, the quintessential Thai crêpes.
Welcome to Bangkok.
Visiting seems a no-brainer but when’s the best time to visit though? Different times of the year mean different seasons in Bangkok — be it hot, rainy or dry and cool — and with that, a variety of different activities.
Whether it’s making a pilgrimage to one of the grand temples or when to get the great bargains, there’s something to do all year round in the Thai capital.
A good time to go is at the very beginning of the year as January is one of Bangkok’s driest months. The temperatures are cooler too, averaging at 27°C with little rain to impede outdoor activities.
There is a sizeable population of Thai Chinese in Bangkok, especially in Yaowarat — the Chinatown. This means late January to early February, traditionally the period for Chinese New Year, will see Chinatown ignite in red lanterns, the crackle of fireworks and the drumbeat of lion dances.
Every Chinatown is different and Yaowarat has a more chaotic atmosphere, more colour and definitely bigger crowds.
Hawker stalls jostle for space as queues form around them. Night falls and the celebration of culture and street food continues, the energy simply electrifying. There’s no better way to experience Bangkok after hours.
For those who are devout Buddhists or curious about Thai spiritual practices, Bangkok has more than 400 wats (or temples).
The most venerated temples include Wat Pra Kaew (Temple of Emerald Buddha), Wat Arun Ratchawararam (Temple of Dawn) and Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha).
In February, Makha Bucha Day — the day Buddha and 1,250 of his first devotees gathered — is celebrated with candlelit processions around temples led by monks in the evenings.
By April, the cool season is long over. Indeed April is often considered the hottest month in Bangkok, with temperatures rising up as high as 37°C on some days.
Add the extreme humidity, and it feels too muggy to even go out. Yet going out is exactly what locals and foreigners alike do, for it is also time for Songkran, the Thai New Year.
Typically a three-day holiday starting on April 13, the actual celebration will last an entire week.
While many offices and shops will close as many Bangkokians return to their hometowns, there is also a sense of joie de vivre as those who remain in the city soak each other with water guns and even full buckets of water!
Silom is a hotspot for these “water fights” with many visitors flying in from around the world simply to join in the fun.
It’s a great way to cool off but not everyone wants to get wet in public. Another way to deal with the sweltering heat is to have khao chae (“rice soaked in cool water” in Thai).
Add firm rice and ice cubes to jasmine-scented water, and enjoy this cold dish with savoury side dishes such as luk kapi (shrimp paste balls) and prik yuak sot sai (sweet peppers stuffed with spiced ground pork and wrapped in an egg lace).
Soak some rice grains or get soaked by a water pistol: take your pick.
Come May, and the monsoon season officially begins though the rains don’t help much with the heat.
Temple visits increase especially on Visakha Bucha (more familiar to us as Wesak Day), considered the holiest date on the Buddhist calendar as it commemorates the birth, enlightenment and passing of Buddha.
A good time for calming the mind... and detoxing the body as many abstain from alcohol during this period.
Shopaholics descend upon the city from June through August when Bangkok’s famous grand summer sale takes place in malls and markets everywhere.
Discounts can go up to 70 or 80 per cent — particularly for clothes and some electronic goods – which makes this frenzied period a favourite of bargain hunters.
The weather is still punishing though so hit the outdoor markets such as the popular Chatuchak Weekend Market early in the morning or late in the evening when it’s cooler. The shopping malls, being air-conditioned, are naturally an all-day affair.
For those on a budget, travelling to Bangkok during the shoulder season of September and October can be a boon as both airfare and accommodation are cheaper due to fewer visitors.
The drawback will be navigating the city at the height of the monsoon: September is the wettest month of the year, with almost 30 centimetres raining down on average over a 22-day period.
Not a bad idea though if you plan on staying indoors, enjoying delicious Thai food and skilful massages from dawn till dusk.
The year end brings much needed relief as the rainy season is finally over, and with it the humidity and heat. It’s a pleasant time to be in Bangkok, both drier and cooler (as low as 22°C on a few rare days).
The Loy Krathong Festival, which is observed on the first full moon day of November, is a magical sight: locals gather around rivers and canals to release krathongs (small boats made of banana leaves with flowers and a candle in its centre) to wash away their sins.
And then it’s time for Bangkok’s residents to ready themselves for the onslaught of the holiday crowds arriving for their Christmas and New Year vacations. Prices go up sharply.
The streets, the malls, the bars, hotels — all filled to the brim with tourists. Who knows? You might be one of them; there’s no bad time to visit this beautiful city after all.
This is the first part in a five-part series about travelling to Bangkok
