KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 17 — Fashion designers Joe Chia and Justin Chew see the world in black and white. And nowhere is this love for all things monochrome more apparent than at Thisappear, their pop-up store, in the heart of Bangsar — Jalan Telawi 3.

Chia, 26, and Chew, 22, met when they were studying at Raffles College of Higher Education. They kept in touch after graduating and worked together at a design company.

The pop-up store — in collaboration with coffee maven Joey Mah's Nowhereman Coffee — came about last November.

“In the beginning, the idea was we wanted to set up a place for local young designers to showcase their works. We intend to draw a different crowd with Thisappear and let people know that we have a place like this and that there are designs like these in Malaysia. This is where people get to see the thought and creativity of young designers,” explained Chia.

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“We wanted a place where people can hang out and find that it's comfortable and it's their place. So, we came up with a name and concept by ourselves and started this pop-up store which will be around for six months. We have plans to change the concept, décor, idea and design every six months,” said Chia.

Joe Chia’s Chapter 3 collection features structured, minimalistic looks (left). Chia experiments with different fabrics and unique designs that are unisex (right)
Joe Chia’s Chapter 3 collection features structured, minimalistic looks (left). Chia experiments with different fabrics and unique designs that are unisex (right)

The duo have plans to make it a more "happening place” where the local music and film industry can come and hold performances in the space. Instead of a stage where the artiste is far away from the audience, the cosy space at

Thisappear allows the audience to sit next to their favourite artistes up close.

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Recently, singer/guitarist Meliha Faisal was invited to perform at the space. The response was very good and they have plans to have more "lively" shows like these.

Being a fashion designer means having to keep up with the latest collections every season. So who are their favourite fashion designers?

Test shots for Chew’s Extremely GOUDE!! collection
Test shots for Chew’s Extremely GOUDE!! collection

“I don't have a favourite designer. Fashion is always moving so fast. You may be good this season and totally out of track the next. Also, new designers keep popping up so there isn't any particular one I like," said Chia.

Chew shares the same sentiments but he is constantly on the look out for new designers, keeping tabs on them so that he can keep himself challenged to do something more.

The big question of course is, why the colour black?

“Black is our favourite colour,” they said. For both of them, they feel that black and white are safe colours that can match anything.

“Monochromatic is always one of my pioneer choices when making a collection. I don’t think we have problems with colours but I want to create pieces people can keep. Black and white is timeless and modern. I don't launch my clothes according to seasons but chapters instead and there is a story behind each collection, a process of my life as well,” said Chia.

Currently, you can find Chapter 3 of Joe Chia’s designs at Thisappear and the next chapter will be launched before March. As a young designer, Chew is just starting his first collection, beginning with basics to test the waters. He is working on his Fall/Winter 2014 collection.

So who does Thisappear design for?

Chew’s previous collection for MIFA 2011 Kronenbourg Who’s Next
Chew’s previous collection for MIFA 2011 Kronenbourg Who’s Next

“Everyone as long as you like the design and you’re comfortable with it," said Chew.

“For me, it's a wide range of target audience. I create different designs for different body shapes. It doesn’t matter if you’re tall, short, thin or fat — you will be able to fit my clothes. Even when it comes to age, I don’t think that there is a limit. You will see customers coming in who are in their twenties right up to their sixties,” said Chia.

Chia has been collaborating with major labels such as Uniqlo, Reebok and G-Shock to create special edition collections.

“The challenge I faced while working with Uniqlo is that I had to fit my own design to their aesthetics and direction. Their direction is more geared to lifestyle and basics. I found a similarity,” said Chia.

As for Chew, his focus is on his first collection where he's working to create a bigger range for a wider audience.

“Justin is still new where he is still experimenting with designs. A pop-up store like this is perfect to listen to comments of customers and work on his designs. The designs I have now are a result of picking up comments from previous years and working on more projects and collections,” said Chia.

What can we expect from Thisappear after the next six months have come and gone?

“Anything can happen. It’s just a matter of time. We might invite indie designers from overseas, more things will be coming soon, we're planning with Artisan and we’re also talking to local artistes.”

Chia and Chew share the same passion for all things monochromatic
Chia and Chew share the same passion for all things monochromatic

In terms of the local fashion industry, the boys are upbeat and positive about awareness and support from the customers.

“It's getting better. More people are appreciating local designers, especially the younger generation,” said Chew.

“Because of social media, people get to know more and understand that sometimes locally designed fashion can be better than overseas brands. We’re fortunate to have media coverage and support, as well. People are willing to understand and try to know the designers better. We hope to influence more people into supporting local products,” said Chia.

That being said, there are still challenges Chia and Chew face. Chew admits that the production part can be challenging because he would have an idea and a design but it’s hard to find a seamstress who can produce what he wants. Also, seamstresses here prefer orders of higher quantity which makes it harder to produce because Chew does not want to compromise quality for quantity. His collection comes in limited pieces and the cost of production is high when he does not order a large amount.

As for Chia, starting out as an indie designer was not a bed of roses as he had to stay overnight at the boutique he worked at to sew clothes.

“I had only one piece and it was hard to sell because I put a lot of work into it. Back then, I had to buy the fabric, cut the fabric and sew it by myself till the wee hours of the morning. Last year, I decided to quit and start Thisappear with Justin,” said Chia.

Over here in Malaysia, it’s hard to find good materials and good seamstresses. Sometimes Chia and Chew have to travel abroad to source for better fabric.

“But for us, everything has been so far so good. We make use of what we have,” said Chia.

Chew’s test shoot for AGONY
Chew’s test shoot for AGONY

“With the limited material and choices, it pushes us to be creative and do something different from what we have in the market,” said Chew. “We are positive about the future and we hope to learn from what we’ve gone through.”

Check out Joe Chia and Justin Chew’s collections at:

Thisappear

20 Jalan Telawi 3, (2nd floor)

Bangsar Baru, 59100 KL

Open daily 8am-9pm

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thisappearkl

This story was first published in Crave in the print edition of The Malay Mail on January 16, 2014.