KUALA LUMPUR, March 29 — In Malaysia, the practice of yum cha or drinking tea and eating dim sum is alive and kicking. Even though the traditional dim sum features pork, innovative chefs in Malaysia are adapting those tiny morsels so Muslims can also enjoy them. One such place where pork-free dim sum rules is Dolly Dim Sum in Avenue K.

Opened since last November, the dim sum restaurant is located side by side its sister restaurant, Fresca that serves Mexican fare. Both the restaurants including Bankara Ramen located upstairs in the shopping mall are run by sisters Lim Meng Lu and Lim Meng Jan. Meng Lu has the expertise of running the Din Tai Fung franchise in Malaysia under her belt.

The dining space at Dolly Dim Sum is filled with natural sunlight pouring from its side glass windows.
The dining space at Dolly Dim Sum is filled with natural sunlight pouring from its side glass windows.

The draw in dining at Dolly Dim Sum is its beautiful ambience with bright turquoise hues, dim sum wooden basket lamps, bird cages that hang from a skylight which blesses you with natural light throughout your meal.

Even though it’s an all-day dim sum place, it’s best to book ahead during lunch time when it is packed with people grabbing a quick bite.

Malaysian chefs have many tricks up their sleeves (or under their chef’s toques) to adapt the incredibly porcine dim sum dishes for those who are looking for pork-free alternatives. For instance, the Siew Mai (RM8.80) made lovely bites with the addition of chopped shiitake mushrooms mixed with the minced chicken and prawn paste. This gave it a better texture and an umami boost to its taste. Another classic dim sum item, the Har Gao (RM9.50) is also well executed here. The super fresh prawns with a crunchy texture underpin this standout item.

Yum cha as you nibble on steamed items like Har Gao, Siew Mai, Steamed Radish Cake and Thai Style Prawn Parcel.
Yum cha as you nibble on steamed items like Har Gao, Siew Mai, Steamed Radish Cake and Thai Style Prawn Parcel.

Most places in Kuala Lumpur serve pan-fried radish cake, but Dolly Dim Sum goes the extra mile to serve both variants: pan-fried and steamed. The Steamed Radish Cake (RM8) is lighter and best eaten piping hot to  enjoy the delicious cake filled with radish shreds mixed with dried prawns, dipped in soy sauce.

At first glance, the Ham Sui Kok (RM8.50) didn’t look appealing but once you bite into it, you discover a delicious chewy-like mochi skin that encases a tasty filling of diced chicken. Definitely a dish worth ordering seconds or more.

Pork-free dim sum places are often liberal with their new dim sum inventions, so do be adventurous to try their creations. We enjoyed the light-tasting Thai Style Prawn Parcel (RM9) — cloud-like gluten puffs stuffed to the brim with minced prawns doused with a light sauce flavoured with Thai chilli sauce, cucumber shreds and chopped red chillies. Similarly, the Wasabi Prawn Dumpling (RM8.80) made nice small bites with its not overly pungent wasabi paste mixed with chopped spring onions and prawns filling.

Dine under birdcages at Dolly Dim Sum.
Dine under birdcages at Dolly Dim Sum.

The Salted Fish Bun (RM8.50) is quite a rarity in dim sum restaurants. Last April, the bun was immensely popular after it was heavily featured in a Chinese drama; a popular dim sum eatery in Penang even introduced it in their dim sum repertoire. This version uses minced chicken mixed with salted fish to mimic the featured bun. The pan-fried bun is tasty with just a hint of the salted fish.

You also have a choice of four types of chee cheong fun — prawns, beef, BBQ chicken and scallop. We sampled the Scallop Chee Cheong Fun (RM15) where scallop is mixed with cut green capsicums and stuffed in the smooth rice flour sheets. It’s best paired with their mild tasting sambal belacan served on the side.

There’s four types of chee cheong fun to chose from, like this Scallop Chee Cheong Fun.
There’s four types of chee cheong fun to chose from, like this Scallop Chee Cheong Fun.

In addition, the menu at Dolly Dim Sum also offers congee, vegetables, fried rice and noodles. Diners here can also order items from Fresca to mix and match. It’s best to pair your dim sum with a pot of Chinese tea. The menu has 11 types of Chinese tea including one with osmanthus.

If you prefer a cold drink, grab one of their mocktails, like lemongrass or pomegranate infused jasmine tea. For those who prefer a stronger drink, they also offer Oriental inspired cocktails.

Cold desserts like avocado puree and mango delight can be ordered (left). Bite sized Ma Lai Gou to pop into the mouth (right).
Cold desserts like avocado puree and mango delight can be ordered (left). Bite sized Ma Lai Gou to pop into the mouth (right).

Desserts seem to be the weakest link here. The Baked Mini Egg Tart (RM7.50) has a lovely flaky tart crust but it needs more eggs in its custard layer to give it a richer taste. Their version of Ma Lai Gou (RM6.50) resembles mini fatt koh as it’s presented like tiny cupcakes. It’s not overly sweet with a distinct brown sugar taste, but I miss the puffiness you get with the old school version. On the menu, there are also other cold sweet desserts like avocado puree, mango delight, coconut pudding and herbal jelly. You also have hot red bean soup.

Dolly Dim Sum, G-9 & G-9A, Ground Floor, Avenue K, 156 Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03- 2181 3830. https://www.facebook.com/dollydimsum