This old style ‘char kway teow’ at Restoran Choon Tien in Bandar Teknologi Kajang is full of ‘wok hei’ and well worth tracking down

KAJANG, Sept 2 — Not all plates of char kway teow are made equal.

Some swear by Penang style char kway teow with its smoky aroma and lighter hue from eschewing a sweeter, dark soy sauce. Others insist on the caramel stickiness this imparts, not to mention a more pleasing obsidian colour.

What if you could have both?

This is the promise of the char kway teow at Restoran Choon Tien in Bandar Teknologi Kajang. Fragrant with the requisite wok hei that comes from high heat stir-frying, yet with a pleasing sweetness thanks to the inclusion of dark soy sauce.

But why travel all the way here, even for this version? (Not a variation, many might point out; this might be the original style, after all.)

The kopitiam’s yellow façade and green signboard. — Picture by CK Lim

Rarity might be the answer. Given the popularity of the Penang char kway teow, it’s been increasingly harder to find a decent rendition of the old school style nowadays.

Therefore the plethora of car workshops in this neighbourhood isn’t a deterrent but a welcome sign that we are in the right place. The kopitiam is immediately recognisable thanks to its yellow façade and green signboard, making it stand out from its drabber surroundings.

Inside, there is plenty of space – the tables are well spaced from each other, the various stalls arranged along the perimeter.

Creamy ‘kopi’ and ‘cham ais’. — Picture by CK Li

As with any dependable coffee shop, the beverage options are pretty standard; you can’t go wrong with either a hot cup of creamy kopi or a chilled glass of cham ais.

Time for some food. Look out for the char kway teow stall near one of the pillars; it’s helpfully labelled Old Style Char Kway Teow so you know you’re in the right place.

We have heard that the friendly couple who runs the stall also serve up excellent fried rice too, so we decided why not just order both at the same stall?

Not unusual, surely, except we typically can’t resist trying out dishes from different stalls. The more choices, the more we can try, right? 

But sometimes it’s good to stick to just one stall and sample a couple of their offerings, if only to see if they stick the landing for everything on their menu or if the signature dish is the way to go.

Look out for the ‘char kway teow’ stall. — Pictures by CK Lim

There are a few toppings for the fried rice: cha siu, luncheon meat, fish cake or chicken. We opt for fried rice with chicken, topped with a fried egg.

This could easily be the weakest option, given how dry or overcooked chicken can be. Yet, perhaps thanks to the speed of cooking and the high heat employed, the morsels of chicken remain tender and every grain of rice is well seasoned and separate; no clumps here.

Indeed, both the char kway teow and fried rice are full of wok hei. But it is the old style char kway teow that is the true standout, if we are being honest.

Fried rice with chicken, topped with a fried egg. — Picture by CK Lim

The ingredients are simple enough: we asked for a mix of yellow mee and flat rice noodles as a base for the fresh bean sprouts, blood cockles, egg and garlic chives.

But it’s the familiar smokiness that accompanies the ambrosial, sweet-savoury flavour of the noodles that is truly unexpected. 

Both the ‘char kway teow’ and fried rice are full of ‘wok hei’. — Picture by CK Lim

Every strand slick with seasoning but just short of being greasy. The appetising midnight shade a welcome change from the insipid pallor of lighter-hued char kway teow.

You can have the best of both worlds, we realise.

Humble, unassuming yet all the more delightful for that, this is a plate of char kway teow well worth tracking down.

Restoran Choon Tien 重天美食中心

1, Jalan 1/5, 

Bandar Teknologi Kajang, Selangor

Open daily 6am-11pm; irregular days off

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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