TOKYO, Dec 17 — What does the All-Father, the King of the Norse gods, eat when he visits Japan?

Oden, of course.

Terrible puns aside, Odin (and, one would imagine, Anthony Hopkins) ought to relish this one-pot dish of daikon, hard-boiled eggs, fishcakes and other ingredients stewed in a light dashi broth.

For one thing, the days are getting colder. In Japan, you know winter is coming when folks eschew slippery strands of chilled somen noodles and the syrupy shaved ice splendours of kakigori in favour of steaming, soupy fare.

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The better to warm their bellies with, especially after braving the bracing gales and the falling temperatures outside. Further north, in Hokkaido, there is already snow on the ground and, as winter deepens, snowstorms are not unheard of.

Thus it’s more than simply understandable for folks to wish to get indoors as soon as possible and get hot food inside of them; it’s plain common sense.

Which is why, though oden is now served throughout the year due to its popularity and affordability, it still remains a classic Japanese winter dish.

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Every pot of 'oden' is different: What treasures lie within?
Every pot of 'oden' is different: What treasures lie within?

Some locals will tell you that you will know when the cold season has arrived when a heated oden vat makes its annual appearance in the konbini (convenience store) around the street corner. Truly a winter’s pot!

Speaking of pots, oden is considered both a style of nimono (simmered dish), on account of the slowly simmering broth, as well as a nabe ryori (hot pot) since a multitude of ingredients are cooked together.

Oh, and what treats!

'Oden' served in a light 'dashi' broth with 'karashi' (yellow mustard) as a condiment.
'Oden' served in a light 'dashi' broth with 'karashi' (yellow mustard) as a condiment.

There’s a mouthwatering selection of oden to choose from. Traditionally oden comprises different ingredients such as the aforementioned daikon (a type of Japanese radish) as well as yude tamago (stewed hard-boiled eggs).

Other oden staples include yaki chikuwa (tube-shaped fish-paste cakes), konnyaku (a firm, savoury jelly made from konjac), and roru kyabetsu (spiced ground pork wrapped in cabbage leaves).

The oden soup itself is typically a light dashi broth made from konbu (dried kelp) though other ingredients such as bonito, dried mushrooms and dried anchovies are sometimes added. Some broths even incorporate miso.

Oden soup is typically made from 'konbu' (dried kelp) though other ingredients such as bonito, dried mushrooms and dried anchovies are sometimes added.
Oden soup is typically made from 'konbu' (dried kelp) though other ingredients such as bonito, dried mushrooms and dried anchovies are sometimes added.

That said, there are basically two major varieties of oden broths: the Kanto broth, which is lighter, and the Kansai version which has a stronger flavour. The region you’re in determines which type of broth you’d be savouring.

Therefore when you are in Tokyo, you’d expect a delicate soup to go with your chikuwa (a log-shaped, hollow grilled fishcake) whereas in Kyoto, you’d find your atsuage (deep fried thick tofu) soaking up a darker broth.

There’s nothing quite like the welcoming warmth and aroma emanating from an oden shop. Many of these shops would have a large pot (some say a cauldron, given the size!) of oden favourites simmering away in the shop’s homemade broth.

The welcoming warmth and aroma emanating from an 'oden' shop.
The welcoming warmth and aroma emanating from an 'oden' shop.

Some oden shops even have helpful guides on the various oden ingredients available. This is particularly useful if the shop has signature ingredients not found elsewhere or that they are justifiably famous for.

Every pot of oden is different: What treasures lie within? There’s only one way to find out and that is to survey your options though be careful not to over-order. Quite frequently our eyes are bigger than our stomach!

And so, you select whatever ingredients you desire; these are served in the broth the morsels of oden were stewed in. A smidgen of karashi (yellow mustard) is smeared across the rim of your plate or bowl as a requisite condiment.

Tucking into a steaming bowl of oden, you can’t help but peel away the winter layers. You will sweat and be grateful for that as you take a bite of tender tsukune (chicken meatballs on a skewer) then slurp up some shirataki (white, translucent noodles made from konnyaku).

A helpful guide on the various 'oden' ingredients available.
A helpful guide on the various 'oden' ingredients available.

How about a mild-flavoured hanpen, a square of spongy steamed fish paste and mountain yam? Or tsumire fish balls made from sardines? Perhaps a wedge of ganmodoki — yes, it’s more fried tofu but this contains vegetables and seaweed so surely it counts as some greens?

Your favourite has to be those tiny pouches of kinchaku, their fried tofu wrappings revealing a sticky and chewy mochi surprise within. Life ought to be full of wonderful surprises like these.

Nowadays you can find oden just about everywhere. Beyond mom-and-pop oden shops, there are the seasonal vats of simmering oden in every konbini during winter. There are pop-up stalls and yatai food carts at the festive markets.

Tucking into a steaming bowl of 'oden', one can’t help but peel away the winter layers.
Tucking into a steaming bowl of 'oden', one can’t help but peel away the winter layers.

Even the fine dining restaurants don’t want to be left out; those that offer kaiseki-ryori cuisine might feature a more delicate version of oden for their nimono course.

Oden is a reminder that however harsh the world outside might be, we can always step inside a warmer and more hospitable space, the steam rising from a humongous pot of simmering daikon and tofu, and have a simple, fuss-free meal that breathes life back into your bones and your soul.

Just ask Odin. He’d likely recommend the konnyaku. (Konjac is also known as the devil’s fruit, and who’s more devilish than Mr Hopkins?)

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