Kampung Baru: Past, present and not-so-certain future

KUALA LUMPUR, May 9 — About a week after the Jalan Raja Bot Market was ordered to shut for Covid-19 screening exercises and sanitisation works, the entire Jalan Raja Bot area was sealed off with barbed wire. 

This is usually done when an area is placed under enhanced movement control order (EMCO) but the authorities have decided not to describe this as such.

For those familiar with this street, it is not just where the famous Jalan Raja Bot Market is located. Where it intersects with Jalan Raja Alang, a famous Ramadan bazaar is set up during the fasting month. 

But that is not happening this year. 

If you drive along Jalan Raja Abdullah, now with administrative restrictions put in place, the main road that runs along both Jalan Raja Bot and Jalan Raja Alang, you will notice just how quiet the whole area is. 

A deserted Jalan Raja Alang... it is usually very busy especially during Ramadan.

By nightfall, it is almost pitch black with non-lit street lamps and only armed forces personnel visible on site. 

Latif Ismail, a third generation resident of Kampung Baru, remembers the Ramadan bazaar well. 

“On this street (Jalan Raja Alang), the Ramadan bazaar attracts many people from all over Klang Valley. Sometimes you can even spot local celebrities.

“But this year due to the Covid-19 outbreak and movement restrictions in place, the bazaar has been cancelled,” said Latif who used to set up a stall regularly at the bazaar.

Kampung Baru as culinary pit stop

Over the years, Kampung Baru has acquired quite the reputation for Malay and Indonesian cuisine. 

Ironically, this happened as a result of the influx of Indonesians into the area… something a few locals have complained about over the years. 

Indonesian migrant workers started populating the village in the 1980s, living in rented properties left behind by land heirs, and along the way made the village a popular food haunt today. 

Kampung Baru has become famous for Indonesian food as migrants who came to work in the city made their way here.

“You won’t go hungry if you live in Kampung Baru. Every corner, there will be a food stall,” said Latif. 

Indeed, Indonesian specialities like Nasi Padang, ayam penyet, bakso and even the original Indonesian satay can be found here.

And despite its reputation of being a very Malay area, the Jalan Raja Bot Market was featured in a popular TV show Jason’s Market Trails — now available on Netflix — and scrumptious eats like pork noodles, kaya toast with coffee and the legendary Hakka fried meat nasi lemak were highlighted.

Remembering back when

“Kampung Baru holds many memories for me and I don’t plan to move out from here. This is where I grew up as a Malaysian and witnessed many historical events,” said the 73-year-old Latif. 

He remembers when Jalan Raja Alang used to be called Perkins Road. 

“The address on my identification card was proof of that until I changed it. So the only evidence I have left of this is my driver’s licence where my address is still written as Perkins Road,” he said. 

Latif Ismail, a third generation resident of Kampung Baru, speaks to Malay Mail during an interview.

Perkins probably refers to the Deputy Surveyor-General of the Federated Malay States and Straits Settlements, CJ Perkins.

It was renamed in 1968 by Datuk Raja Mohamed, son of Raja Alang Berayun. 

According to published records, Datuk Raja Mohamed, although was given an opportunity to rename the road, did not want the road to be named after him. Instead, he named it after his father. 

Among others, Jalan Raja Muda Aziz was Princes Road and Jalan Raja Abdullah was Hale Road.

Latif also remembers when he worked as a machine operator where he monitored the printing of Order Papers before each day’s Parliamentary sitting. 

He was later appointed a sergeant-at-arms or bentara towards the end of the late Tun Mohamed Zahir Ismail’s term as the Dewan Rakyat speaker (June 14, 1982 to October 14, 2004). 

“When I was a bentara, I helped wheel the late Karpal Singh into the Dewan. My job was also to ensure that no one else from the public came inside. 

“Even the pressmen, the photographers are only given a five-minute window to take photographs,” he said. 

Neighbours Gani Muhammad (left) and Latif Ismail love talking about Kampung Baru's history.

What next for Kampung Baru?

Gani Muhammad, 72, said while Kampung Baru remains very much as it was, it has not been spared from the intrusion of high-rise buildings such as the Hilton Garden Inn, Brisdale Hotel and the Tamu Hotel and Suites.

Anywhere you go in the seven sub-villages — Kampung Atas A, Kampung Atas B, Kampung Paya, Kampung Masjid and Kampung Pindah, Kampung Hujung Pasir and Kampung Periok — you can also see the Petronas Twin Towers. 

“The younger generation who inherited this land from their parents, they don’t see the value of the land here. 

“Although by selling the land one can make big money, but money will not last forever. Instead land and property do,” he said. 

Gani was referring to the development plans drawn up by the Perbadanan Kampung Baru or the Kampung Baru Development Corporation which has hit a roadblock over dispute of land value.

Federal Territories Minister Tan Sri Annuar Musa has decided to put plans on hold, claiming that no developer has come forward to take up the project. 

“I have plans to develop the land that I own but because of the disease outbreak, all my plans are stalled at the moment,” he added.