MILAN, Sept 28 ― After London, it was Italy's fashion capital that paid tribute to all the sartorial relics of the 2000s, from crop tops to low-rise jeans, visible lingerie, and even logos. Between bold sensuality, sporty silhouettes, sequins, and bright colours, the famous Y2K aesthetic appeared as a key source of inspiration for Milanese design and other houses showing in Italy this season.

Fashion has a reputation for being endlessly cyclical. And this reputation dates back to well before the 2000s became the decade of choice for designers and fashion houses, which this has been the case for two seasons now. Nostalgia appears to be a watchword in fashion, which has been elevating the clothing style of the first decade of the century to star status. Indeed millennium style, widely criticised for a lack of chic, simplicity and elegance, is back on the catwalk. It's an era that doesn't take itself seriously, and that may be why so many find comfort in it at the moment, given the gloomy context that colours our daily lives, providingY2K fashion an opportunity to shine and find fans.

Standout style: Cargo pants

Unlike in New York and London, the micro mini-skirt was not the star of Spring-Summer 2023 in Milan, although it was present at Vivetta, Versace, and, to a lesser extent, Sportmax. Cargo pants, reminiscent of the 2000s, have clearly dethroned it here, flaunting a dominant presence on the catwalks of Fendi, Jil Sander, and Dolce & Gabbana, reinterpreted in fluid, high-end materials like silk, for versions that are more chic than the original. Initially worn by the military, then more widely by men, cargo pants are defined by multiple pockets and functional design, which make them a perfect fit in an era where non-gendered fashion, as well as casual chic, are on the rise.

Fabric focus: All denim, all the time

Despite industry efforts, production of denim is not a model of eco-responsibility, but this hasn't stopped it from being one of the favourite materials for next season. As in London, Milanese houses embraced the famous blue fabric, in small accents or in head-to-toe styles, your choice. Long dresses, short dresses, shirts, jackets, jeans, tops: Blumarine proposed a genuine ode to denim, opting for a faded shade reminiscent of the 2000s. But Tod's, Dolce & Gabbana, and of course Diesel, also made denim their favourite material for spring-summer 2023. Not surprisingly, the low-waisted styles dominated. Note that the leather also made a key showing, as seen at Versace, in a style that nodded to grunge.

Hue highlight: Rainbow shades

While gold and silver were in the spotlight on the catwalks of New York and London, Milan sent out nothing less than a rainbow of colours, each more vivid and punchy than the last. There was such a range that it was difficult to single out one of them. Yellow at Ferrari, pink at Benetton, blue at Emporio Armani, and a mix of vibrant colours at Versace, Missoni, and Moschino, prove that the season will put the accent on optimism, at least for our wardrobes. Sequins were much less present, covering only a few silhouettes here and there in a handful of collections.

Prime print: Fruit

A fresh vitamin-infused cocktail is on the menu for designers and major labels in Milan. And as we know, this means consuming five fruits and vegetables a day. In reality, next spring is all about fruits, from cherries to pineapples and grapes, even if they aren't always in season. At Benetton, cherries, pears, and apples took centre stage, often in oversize, ultra brightly coloured versions, while Roberto Cavalli made the most of grapes and pineapples, either ultra chic or casual. Animal prints also made a return, with zebra and leopard in the lead, at Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci, among others.

The finishing touch: Fringe makes a comeback

Just like lacing, bows, butterflies, and rhinestones, fringe is among the many details that evoke the 2000s. As a result, it too made a comeback in Milan, showing up on all elements of a wardrobe, from tops and jackets to dresses and skirts. A trend spotted on the catwalks of many major labels, including Versace, Bottega Veneta, and Dolce & Gabbana in a jewellery version. ― ETX Studio