KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 25 — There are some days when the scent of flour and yeast feels more comforting than the aroma of coffee. One thinks of Naples — or rather, of the idea of Naples — where pizza is less a meal than a way of living.
The best pizza I have ever eaten wasn’t in Naples but it was close enough. Half an hour from the city centre, I was exploring the Roman ruins of Pompeii. Mount Vesuvius in the distance, majestic but also unnerving, with the ghosts of fire and ash.
My days were full of adventure, and I was full of dreams. But adventures and dreams do not fill a hungry belly.
It was a small pizzeria at the edge of town, not far from the train station and the ruins. Could well have been a tourist trap, for sure, but it felt casual enough, perhaps dingy enough, that one imagines that this was a hole-in-the-wall only the locals knew about it.
Whatever it was, the pizza was amazing. Just a simple Pizza Margherita — crushed tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh basil and a hearty dousing of extra virgin olive oil — but it was so good.
Less than a year earlier, I had been in Trento, in the north, where my Italian friend Manuel had taught me his family recipe for pizza dough. We had made pizzas and calzones (think of a folded pizza), and those were delicious.
Yet this Neapolitan pizza, in full view of Mount Vesuvius, was something else altogether.
But we are not in Naples anymore, of course. It’s years later, more than two decades, if I am honest, and we are at home, with what we have, and that is quite enough.
I still remember Manuel’s recipe for a classic pizza dough, though I must have adapted it here and there over time.
The basics remain the same, however: mix, knead, rest. Some toppings, whatever you have in your fridge and pantry. Then, into the heat it goes.
Six or seven minutes later, the kitchen smells of something ancient and joyful. Fire and ash, yes, but also the taste of adventure and dreams.
A bite of crust that crackles, the tang of tomato, the milk-sweet melt of cheese — a memory of a much younger man backpacking in Italy, eating his way across that beautiful country.
A classic pizza dough
The Italians speak of “Tipo 00” as though it were sacred, and perhaps it is. Silky and pale, this quintessential pizza flour stretches like a dream and bakes into a crust both soft and charred.
But this specific brand is a challenge to locate and can be quite pricey, even if you track down a bag at your local grocer. Fret not — I find that a blend of more common flours, easily sourced from most supermarkets, will do the trick nicely.
The golden ratio here is roughly 70 per cent all-purpose flour (unbleached, moderate protein) and 30 per cent bread flour (for strength and chew).
Sift them together and you’ll have something remarkably close to the fine Italian grind. It’s a reminder that home cooking isn’t about perfection; it’s about improvisation.
On that note, a home oven will never come close to the fiery heart of a professional Neapolitan oven. The crust won’t quite leap as high, but it will still blister beautifully if you finish it using the broiler function; most home ovens have one.
Last bit of advice, and this comes directly from Manuel — trust the Italian! — and that is to top with restraint: a few spoonfuls of crushed tomatoes, a scattering of torn mozzarella, three or four leaves of fresh basil, a final drizzle of olive oil, and you’re good.
Ingredients
3g active dry yeast
400ml warm water
600g flour blend (420g all-purpose flour + 180g bread flour)
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil (optional)
Toppings of choice
Method
- Dissolve the active dry yeast into the warm water. Allow the yeast to bloom for 5–10 minutes.
- Next add about ¾ of the flour blend to the water mixture, stirring until well combined.
- Sprinkle in the sea salt and remaining flour blend. Add a drizzle of olive oil if you wish for a more yielding crumb.
- Knead until smooth, about 10 minutes. The dough should be supple, not stiff. A slight stickiness is okay.
- Cover and let the dough rest for 3-4 hours at room temperature, until it doubles in size.
- Now divide it into four balls and allow to rise again at room temperature for another 2-3 hours. Whilst the balls of pizza dough are nearing the end of their rise, preheat your oven to 260°C.
- Take one ball and stretch into a large circular round. Garnish with your desired toppings – crushed tomatoes or tomato paste; fresh mozzarella, torn into chunks, or grated Parmesan, if that is what you have; pepperoni sliced into coins or sausages, broken into small pieces; basil leaves, rosemary or other herbs of choice; a further drizzle of olive oil – whatever you like.
- Transfer the pizza to the oven and bake for 6–8 minutes until the crust is golden brown. If you have a broiler function in your oven, finish under the broiler for another minute to encourage blistering of the crust.
- When ready, remove the pizza from the oven and place on a cooling rack for 2-5 minutes. Resting allows the steam to escape.
- Cut into slices and enjoy!
