KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 28 — About a decade ago, when the first food trucks slinging burgers and hot dogs began popping up, Curbside Cantina was right there with the first wave, serving up tacos and quesadillas.
Not that food trucks were anything new to Malaysians; we had long been queuing at four-wheelers peddling everything from nasi lemak and asam laksa to cendol, rojak and of course lok-lok, the original truckside eating experience.
Other things you could get anywhere, but lok-lok not from a truck is no lok-lok at all.
But trucks like Curbside Cantina brought something new to diners who were used to finding that sort of fare only in restaurants.
With the boom of smash burgers today, it is easy to forget that there was a time when the idea of eating this kind of food while standing beside a truck on the road felt inconceivable.
Eventually, the cantina left the curbside for the curb itself in 2023, opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Damansara Kim.
In February 2024, perhaps to better reflect its new digs, Curbside Cantina rebranded as Tina’s Taqueria, while continuing to juggle catering events from the truck alongside day-to-day restaurant operations.
By May this year, Tina’s had moved to The Five in Bukit Damansara, settling into the open-air bridge space between Block D and Block E.
The spot is decently shaded, but the best time to go is still around sundown, when the weather cools and the pull of a few margaritas with the complimentary nachos and salsa feels that much stronger.
The first time I tried Curbside Cantina’s tacos was a few months after they opened in Damansara Kim, and I left thinking they make some of the best fish tacos around.
The same is true at Tina’s: the battered fish taco (RM13), done Baja style with a soft corn tortilla, avocado crema and pico de gallo, is a winner.
You can choose between Baja or Sonora style for any taco; the latter swaps in a pimento salsa for pico de gallo, but the brightness of chopped tomatoes, onions, cilantro and plenty of lime on a crispy nugget of fried fish is by far the better match.
It is also (mostly) traditional: fish tacos originated in Baja California, Mexico, where they are served with lettuce, sour cream and, yes, pico de gallo.
Other proteins on the pork-free menu include beef brisket done carne asada (RM14) style, tiger prawn (RM16), chicken al pastor (RM13) and duck carnitas (RM14).
You can mix and match between the Baja and Sonora styles, since Tina’s sauces are part of the appeal. With the exception of the fish, where pico de gallo is the clear choice, the other proteins work well with either.
Let preference lead the way: sharp and citrusy on one hand, or the sweet, warming heat of red peppers in the pimento salsa on the other.
The carne asada and tiger prawn tacos are standouts in Sonora style, with tender brisket in one and smoky, sweet prawn in the other.
When I visited in July, ribeye was being used for the carne asada and large white prawns were offered instead of tiger prawns.
The ribeye was tough and chewy, unpleasant against a soft wheat tortilla, while the white prawns, though bigger, tasted mostly of nothing.
The tiger prawns are firmer and have a much bolder flavour that pairs wonderfully with the pimento salsa, and the brisket is far more tender and easy to eat. Small tweaks that make a big difference.
Like something crispy? Tina's doesn't quite do a Crunchwrap Supreme, but it does offer a range of tostadas.
Toppings include the same proteins, served on a fried corn tortilla with a layer of crisp melted jack cheese, or crudo options like raw tuna or dressed crab.
Once again, the tiger prawn (RM16) stands out, bold enough to hold its own against the sauces and the salty, crunchy cheese.
New digs means new items on the menu, and one of the best bites from the snacks section is the pez fritos (RM32), battered and fried whitebait with garlic jalapeño mayo. Salty, crispy and tangy, it all but guarantees a margarita order.
Tina’s Taqueria
Level 1, Block D,
The Five KPD,
Jalan Dungun, Bukit Damansara,
Kuala Lumpur.
Open Monday to Saturday, 12-11pm.
Open from 4pm on Tuesday.
Closes at 12am on Thursday and Friday.
Open 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm on Saturday.
Instagram: @tinastaqueria
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and self-deprecating attempts at humour.
