GEORGE TOWN, Nov 6 — Stepping into the famed Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion is an experience in itself; you will feel like you are reliving the glory days of the Straits Chinese in the 1880s.
The Blue Mansion, as it is known, exudes the old world charm of a bygone era but when you step into Indigo, its newly-opened restaurant, you will be impressed by how the modern is married to the traditional.
With its clean contemporary lines and stained glass windows, it is at once new and yet old. This concept is beautifully illustrated by the most striking visual feature here: a piece of carpet with the patina of age in a circular frame against an indigo and gold background. At night, this circular vision is reflected on the glass door facing the verandah.
The sheer poetry of this was inspired by a pavilion in one of the gardens in Suzhou, China. It is symbolic of the moon reflected on a still lake in a mirror at the pavilion and this is exactly what restaurant owner Laurence Loh had in mind.
The renowned conservation architect said the restaurant is his way of challenging himself to do something contemporary and different from the rest of the deeply traditional heritage mansion.
“After 25 years of doing this, I wanted to do something different and I saw it as a challenge to myself on how to respect this place while at the same time letting people enter a completely new world when they step inside here,” he said.
Previously, the restaurant was exactly like the rest of the mansion... done in a traditional heritage style but as can be seen, it has been revamped.
The new restaurant opened its doors in April with Chef Beh Weng Chia’s exclusive menu of dishes that feature Western and Asian influences.
Trained in Japanese and French cuisine, Beh makes sure that all ingredients are of the best quality.
He marries these imported items with local herbs and spices to create a fusion of Malaysian, French and Japanese flavours.
Though the restaurant offers set lunch and dinner menus, they have an à la carte menu and also do custom orders.
“Some of our regular customers will call us up and request special menus,” said Beh, who is better known as Chef Weng.
Patrons can make reservations and pre-book dinners for a minimum of two and Chef Weng will prepare something according to their budgets.
Though the restaurant is still relatively new, the à la carte menu has changed a few times as Beh believes in introducing new items every few months.
This time around, among the appetisers are truffled corn soup, Russian sea urchin served with capellini, and grilled prawn and squid salad.
The corn soup is a creamy sweet concoction made from Pearl corn. In the soup are juicy pan seared scallops and unagi which add an extra layer of texture and just the slightest hint of seafood flavours.
As for the grilled prawn and squid salad, the large succulent prawns and squid are blanched to a perfect soft juiciness, preserving the natural juices of the prawns and squid while ensuring it is not in the least chewy. These topped a salad of mango, avocado, mixed lettuce and mint leaves. For a refreshing twist, there is the tandoori dressing.
For the mains, the chef’s top seller is the pure bred Wagyu M7 sirloin that is tender and juicy with very minimal seasoning so as not to distract from the meat itself.
“I don’t like to use too much seasoning and sauces in my cooking, I concentrate more on cooking techniques rather than using marinades and sauces that will only cover up the fresh flavours of the meat or fish,” Beh said.
True enough, if you order the rack of lamb which is not on the menu but can be prepared upon special request, the miso glazed rack of lamb is succulently tender and juicy.
It is served with just the barest hint of orange reduction and accompanied by taro purée, pine nuts, sautéed spinach and fresh Thai basil leaves that surprisingly complement the flavours of the lamb.
To end your meal, there is their signature Jasmine panna cotta which is topped with a tangy mango sorbet and given a pop of sweetness with the addition of caramel pearls.
The refreshing juicy bits of pomelo sprinkled on the creamy base round up the whole dish perfectly, giving it a multi-layer of flavours and textures.
Indigo is located on the first floor of the mansion so diners can walk in and go straight up. Prior reservations are encouraged.
Indigo, The Blue Mansion
14, Leith Street, George Town.
Time: 12pm-3pm, 6.30pm-10pm
Closed on Mondays
Tel: +604 262 0006
