KUALA LUMPUR, March 20 — You’ve probably tried okonomiyaki, often described as Japanese pizza although it is really more of a thick, eggy pancake. Filled with chopped cabbage and a variety of toppings, it is finished with a coat of barbecue-like okonomiyaki sauce and drizzles of mayonnaise, then garnished with seaweed and bonito flakes.
Osaka, the food mecca of Japan, is known for this style of okonomiyaki but did you know that Tokyo has its own version? There is an entire street in Tsukishima, a man-made island about 30 minutes’ walk (or five minutes by taxi) from Ginza, where nearly 70 restaurants specialise in this popular dish.
Known as monjayaki, it uses a more watery batter that results in a thinner but more flavoursome cake as the flour base also contains fish, prawns and cuttlefish. The cooking technique is also slightly different.
In Japan, you can commonly find okonomiyaki restaurants with a do-it-yourself concept where customers sit at teppan tables fitted with hot plates, and cook the okonomiyaki themselves.
For Osaka-style, everything — batter, egg and toppings — is mixed together and then poured onto the sizzling oiled surface. Then it’s just a matter of waiting for it to cook before brushing on the sauce and garnishing as desired. To eat, you cut it into wedges and serve on plates.
Monjayaki, on the other hand, involves a bit more engagement from the cook and you can find out how at Malaysia’s first such restaurant. Part of the Aruku Japan food street located on the third floor of Berjaya Times Square, the simply-named Monjayaki Restaurant brings not only the authentic flavours of the Tokyo favourite to Kuala Lumpur but also the fun of cooking it yourself.
There are more than 10 types of toppings available including mushrooms, kimchi, salmon, ramen and yellow noodles, all with the same base batter and cabbage. The Mentai Mochi is one of the most popular variants while the Curry Chicken will appeal to many Malaysians.
The restaurant will provide step-by-step instructions on cooking the monjayaki, or you can watch a video playing on the computer screen at the cashier’s counter. It’s really simple although you should be prepared to face the heat and give your arm a bit of a workout.
To begin, the wait staff will oil the hot plate on your table. Once the oil is hot enough, you can start cooking the protein, using two spatulas to press the meat onto the surface or chop it up if you prefer smaller bites. When the meat is cooked, push it aside and start cooking the cabbage and other condiments. Fry the vegetable by tossing and chopping with the spatulas. Add the cooked protein, then shape the mixture into a circle so it forms a well in the centre to hold the batter. Pour the liquid into this well and let it bubble away for a while before stir-frying everything up. Spread the mixture across the hot plate thinly, and dress it up with okonomiyaki sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed or chilli flakes.
The monjayaki is already cooked at this point, and has the texture of moist scrambled eggs. Feel free to then shape the monjayaki any way you wish, ‘write’ with the mixture or decorate the top with mayonnaise art.
“Monja”, after all, means “as you wish” and monjayaki is as much about having fun as it is about pleasing the palate.
When you’re ready to eat, dig in using mini spatulas known as moji-bera: Scrape a bit off and press it against the hot plate for more crispness before placing it into your mouth.
The savoury flavours, crunchy and sweet cabbage, and creamy batter come together for an enjoyable snack or anytime meal. They also have okonomiyaki on the menu, as well as Japanese staples such as yakisoba and garlic fried rice. As with the monjayaki, you can opt to cook it yourself or have the staff do it for you.
The recipes are guided by chef Akira Yamaguchi, who hails from Yokohama, where monjayaki is as popular as in Tokyo. If you detect a hint of sweetness in the food, particularly the yakisoba, he will tell you that’s because he is a sweet person and has infused his love into the dishes!
He also recommends trying ramune, a traditional soda that is a childhood favourite of many Japanese. It comes in four flavours — original, strawberry, melon and grapes — and a unique inner bottle design shaped like an hourglass, with a marble resting at the mouth.
Using a contraption attached to the cap, you push the marble into the bottle to release the carbonation. The marble then stays inside the bottle and Japanese children make a game of making sure it doesn’t block the beverage from flowing through.
While chef Akira oversees the kitchen and recipe development, Monjayaki’s operations are managed by the trio of Datuk Woo Poh San, Shafinaz Shaukat and Jenny Lim. Datuk Woo has prior experience in the F&B industry, having brought the Little Taiwan chain of restaurants into the country and operates several food courts in Kuala Lumpur.
For Shafinaz and Jenny, the restaurant is a completely new experience; Shafinaz is in the oil and gas line while Jenny owns an advertising agency. The pair first met through their sons, who were born two days apart and had been classmates since pre-school. The duo had talked about opening a cafe together but had never thought of running a Japanese restaurant, until Datuk Woo approached Shafinaz with the idea.
“Datuk Woo contacted me about joining forces to run this restaurant, and I mentioned it to Jenny over roti canai one morning. She immediately said she was keen,” Shafinaz reveals while Jenny chips in with a laugh, “We sealed the deal with a high five and calik!”
Barely a month old, Monjayaki is already drawing a largely Japanese crowd, particularly expatriates who had been waiting for just such a restaurant to open in the city — one that encourages you to play with your food.
Monjayaki is at Lot 03-114, Aruku Japan, Level 3 (Near GSC), Berjaya Times Square, Kuala Lumpur
Opens 10am-10pm daily
Vivian Chong is a freelance writer-editor who loves all things Japanese. Follow her lifestyle adventures at http://thisbunnyhops.com/
