From ‘loup de mer en croûte’ to ‘nasi kandar’, these are the best things I ate in 2025

KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 25 — I often struggle to answer the question “What’s the best thing you ate this year?” 

Thinking about food in terms of individual dishes or meals feels incomplete; it is impossible to convey the fullness of experiencing a restaurant, bar or stall just through its food, but our job is to try. 

And so this is the try, hopefully with enough contextualising to encourage you to seek them out for yourself. 

Here’s to the best things I ate in 2025, and wishing a very merry Christmas to you, dear reader.

‘Loup de mer en croûte de Monsieur Paul Bocuse’ at Bidou

In a year of comfort and nostalgia, Darren Teoh returned to his cooking roots with Bidou, a tribute to the giants of French culinary tradition, such as Paul Bocuse, Michel Guérard, and Roger Vergé.

Twentieth-century flair and meticulous, refined technique define many of the dishes on the menu, perhaps none more so than his homage to Monsieur Paul’s loup de mer en croûte: in place of sea bass, Bidou’s version has threadfin and scallop mousse inside a buttery, flaky puff pastry shell, served with leek fondue and Choron sauce on the side.

9, Jalan Setiakasih 5, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur

Dry ‘pan mee’ with thick noodles at Kung Fu Smooth Pan Mee

With a name like Kung Fu Smooth Pan Mee, one would expect texture to be the defining trait of their handmade pan mee. And it is. 

The thick noodles, in particular, are smooth with a satisfying chew, but what really makes this dish worthy of the phrase “umami bomb” in the original headline is the incredibly savoury sauce it is dressed in.

It is not a trick of the light; the sauce really clings onto the noodles like that at Kung Fu Smooth Pan Mee -- Picture by Ethan Lau

Each strand of noodle invites you on a trip through a dark, sticky coat of mushroom magic that gets better the more you chew it.

28, Jalan Seri Sentosa 9a, Taman Sri Sentosa, Kuala Lumpur

‘Assam’ mustard greens at Ah Sang Teochew Restaurant

The signature offering at Ah Sang Teochew Restaurant may be Teochew-style braised duck, but the assam mustard greens, or chai boey, steal the spotlight. 

It is a tangy combination that balances zip and zest, utilising leftover braised duck to yield lip-smacking goodness with preserved mustard greens, dried chillies, and tamarind in a bowl. 

Braised duck might seem like the calling card at Ah Sang, but the real star of the show is the ‘assam’ mustard greens — Picture by Ethan Lau

Each spoonful is sour, spicy, and just a touch sweet. This alone is worth a visit.

5, Lorong Durian, Taman Cheras, Kuala Lumpur

‘Char koay teow’ at No. 5 Char Koay Teow

Everybody has their “best” char koay teow spot in Penang, whether it’s smack in the middle of central George Town or out in the suburbs like Jelutong. No. 5 on Jalan Macalister is mine. 

I have little to no patience for queuing, especially when I’m on holiday, but I’m willing to sit through the sometimes hour-, hour-and-a half-long wait for a taste of this incredible char koay teow. 

No. 5 Char Koay Teow, especially with duck egg, is worth the wait — Picture by Ethan Lau

Each plate (fried individually) is filled to the brim with wok hei and is heavy on the savouriness; this is probably not a plate you’d be able to eat every single day, especially if you have it with duck egg, at which point it becomes an even more indulgent affair.

94, Jalan Macalister, Sunshine City, George Town, Penang

Roast goose at Hong Kong Roasted Goose King

Bronzed and seductive. Glistening and juicy. 

These aren’t just some of the superlatives I had in college; they also aptly describe the roast goose at Hong Kong Roasted Goose King in Pavilion Damansara Heights. 

When writing that story, I referred to goose as “the Jessica Rabbit of poultry, a sex symbol for roasted birds if ever there was one”, and I still stand by these words. 

Few things in the world are more tantalising than the appearance of an entire roasted goose, like the one here from Hong Kong Roasted Goose King — Picture by Ethan Lau

It is the embodiment of sultry temptation, and the crisp, tan sheen from roasting is the bright, sequined dress adorning Mrs Rabbit.

Lot 1.17.00, Pavilion Damansara Heights, Pusat Bandar Damansara, Kuala Lumpur

Beef noodles at Yoong Kee Beef Noodle

Before a brief hiatus in the second half of 2024, Albert Lai spent the better part of a decade building a loyal following of customers at Yung Kee by serving what many believed to be the best beef brisket noodles in Pudu. 

His comeback this year with Yoong Kee was a high point for me personally, which goes some way in explaining the state of my life. 

Yoong Kee is known for preparing all parts of the cow, but it is hard to resist the inside skirt, or ‘pang sar lam’ — Picture by Ethan Lau

Every part of the cow prepared here is good, but the truly great bits are the tripe, short rib and inside skirt, also known as pang sar lam.

43, Jalan Changkat Thambi Dollah, Pudu, Kuala Lumpur

Stuffed Charleston peppers at sits

Bar food, even very, very good bar food, is often just that. 

A pleasant vessel to get another round down the gullet, not meant to be memorable, if at all. 

A step above just great bar food, the stuffed Charleston peppers from sits is a must-have every time I go back — Picture by Ethan Lau

But I haven’t stopped thinking about the stuffed Charleston peppers at sits, a tiny, unassuming pub/bar tucked away in the corner of Arcoris in Mont Kiara. 

Part yong tau foo, part tapas, the peppers are stuffed with pork, their skins blistered like Padrón peppers, and a bright red pepper sauce on the side seals the deal.

G-7, Arcoris, Jalan Kiara, Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur

‘Nasi kak wok’ at Restoran Warong Wok

Growing up, one of my favourite things to eat was nasi Kak Wok. 

The Kelantanese speciality enjoys considerably less fame compared to its more famous counterparts, but a few places in the Klang Valley specialise in it. 

‘Nasi Kak Wok’ is a Kelantanese speciality that I have fond memories of growing up eating, and this version from Warong Wok is a favourite of mine — Picture by Ethan Lau

Restoran Warong Wok in Bandar Puchong Jaya is one, serving up a behemoth of a packet filled with rice, large, hefty chunks of turmeric fried chicken, ladlefuls of gulai dalca ayam (complete with bits of chicken neck) and a generous splatter of dark red sambal belacan.

1-2, Jalan Kenari 12a, Bandar Puchong Jaya, Puchong

‘Lahpet thoke’ at Myanmar food stall, S Double One Restaurant

When it comes to the cuisines of our neighbours to the north, Myanmar is hugely underrepresented. 

So I was over the moon when a friend led me to this stall in S Double One Restaurant, in Desa Sri Hartamas. 

‘Lahpet thoke’, Myanmar’s iconic fermented tea leaf salad, from an unassuming stall in Desa Sri Hartamas — Picture by Ethan Lau

Among other classic Myanmar dishes, they serve lahpet thoke, the iconic tea leaf salad made with fermented tea leaves, shredded cabbage and tomatoes, slices of raw garlic and chilli, and a crunchy trio of chickpeas, broad beans and peanuts. 

It’s refreshing, yet bold and funky from the unique flavour of the tea leaves, and doubles as a window into the significance of tea in Myanmar’s history.

52, Jalan 27/70a, Desa Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur

‘Nasi kandar’ at Restoran Nasi Kandar Ibramsha

2025 was the year that saw Nasi Kandar Ibramsha, a stalwart of the Penang staple in KL, finally move out of the city and into the suburban wilderness after more than 50 years on Jalan TAR. 

The ‘nasi kandar’ is still excellent at Nasi Kandar Ibramsha, even after moving from Jalan TAR into Taman Sri Muda — Picture by Ethan Lau

I was more than happy to report that even after the move, the nasi kandar is still excellent, from the ayam bawang to the perut kambing and even the distinctive sambal belacan.

18E-G, Jalan Setia 25/65, Taman Sri Muda, Section 25, Shah Alam