GEORGE TOWN, May 6 — Springtime in Europe doesn’t just mean daffodils and tulips; it also heralds the season for white asparagus. This perennial vegetable, much sought after for its delicate flavours and light texture, is traditionally enjoyed during the months of May and June.
So called because of its pale, light yellow tinge as opposed to its green cousin, white asparagus is grown in the dark, away from sunlight. The tender shoots which emerge are continually covered with earth as they grow, resulting in beige spears in which no photosynthesis has taken place. These are harvested when they grow to a certain length.
Penangites will once again have a chance to savour this delicacy at the Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa’s award-winning Feringgi Grill. Started last year, it proved so popular that they have brought back this annual promotion.
“It was something new,” explained Chef de Cuisine Matthias Tretbar, “and our guests were impressed with the flavour. White asparagus is less bitter and more tender than the typical garden variety asparagus.”
Their White Asparagus menu features different ways to enjoy this versatile vegetable. Starters, for example, include a colourful Stir-Fried White and Green Asparagus with strawberries, rocket and foie gras, and an elegant Caramelized White Asparagus Crème which is poured over a chopped smoked salmon and caviar centrepiece, served piping hot. It’s slightly sweet, and despite its subtle taste, the flavours of the asparagus stock which is used as a base are distinguishable, and the smoked salmon adds depth.
These vegetables are also used as accompaniments to the normal Feringgi Grill mains, amongst them Panfried Scallops, Canadian Cod, Lamb Chops and their signature Wagyu Beef Tenderloin. A personal favourite is Braised Beef Cheeks, the meat slow-cooked for 12 hours in a red wine gravy until it melts in your mouth. It goes beautifully with the way Chef Matthias likes to serve his asparagus: tender yet with crunch.
“Asparagus,” he insisted, “should not be overcooked till they are soft.” To prepare them, boiling stock is poured over so they are cooked only by the heat.
The spears are served with a choice of four sauces: classic Bearnaise (white sauce with butter and egg yoke), Choron (Bearnaise with a hint of tomato paste), Hollandaise (slightly tart) and the orange-flavoured Maltaise.
In the West, this vegetable never fails to bring about a debate: how should one eat it? With one’s fingers or with knife and fork? The former is apparently quite acceptable in polite society – apparently Jackie Kennedy was told that it was all right to do so by no less than President John F. Kennedy himself – so I guess it boils down to personal preference. How soft it is and what sauce it is served in may have something to do with your decision.
As far as Chef Matthias is concerned, however: “I recommend that you eat asparagus the civilised way: with a knife and fork.” However, he does go on to add that he doesn’t mind if you “use your fingers or any other part of your body or equipment… as long it makes you happy!” Personally, I’d go along with implements, because, although he claims that the spears served in the Feringgi Grill are medium-sized, they are rather too big to pop into your mouth gracefully!
The Feringgi Grill White Asparagus Promotion lasts until end May. For details or reservations contact +604 888 8888.
The Feringgi Grill
Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa
Batu Feringghi
Penang 10000
