PARIS, Oct 21 — Each week, Relaxnews invites a master chef to share insights into the gourmet kitchen by presenting a favourite ingredient. Quentin Domange took up the reins at the Bistro Urbain, a casual gastronomic bistro in Paris's up-and-coming 10th arrondissement. He shared his affinity for one of the most flavourful mushrooms harvested this time of year in France: porcini.
Relaxnews: What led you to choose this ingredient?
Quentin Domange: This ingredient reminds me of vacations with my family in Normandy.
R: What is your best kitchen memory associated with this ingredient?
QD: During my first two months of training, I came to appreciate mushrooms and garlic — which I could not stand before -- thanks to the chef Philippe Groult, and this opened up a lot of doors for me.
R: When is this ingredient in season?
QD: Porcini can be enjoyed from the end of summer through to the start of fall.
R: What is the best way to prepare porcini mushrooms? Can you share a recipe?
QD: The best method is to sauté them. They must be washed thoroughly with water before cooking, but avoid completely immersing them. Next, cut them up (dice them, halved or simply sliced), and cook them in oil and butter. The porcini can be served with foaming butter and sautéed garlic, parsley and shallots.
R: What other ingredients can be combined with porcini to delight and surprise the taste buds?
QD: A carpaccio can be prepared with just thin slices of porcini, olive oil, lemon, coarse sea salt, and black pepper or Espelette chili powder. But be sure to use only small porcini mushrooms; otherwise the taste is too strong. Porcini can also be sliced thinly and served raw with a few leaves of arugula.
R: What are the most common mistakes made when preparing this ingredient?
QD: When washing porcini, one should never allow them to soak in the water. It is essential to store them with the cap down so that the green part does not begin to eat away at the cap. One should remove the green and slimy part of porcini when it is large.
R: How do you offer this ingredient on your current menu?
QD: Sautéed porcini with bacon as a starter, and as a side dish, porcini that is simply sautéed, a great accompaniment for veal or sweetbreads.
R: What wine (or other alcohol) is best paired with this ingredient?
QD: A Chauffit Riesling, a Côteaux Varois Château Thuerry, or a Guigal Condrieu.
—AFP Relaxnews
