PETALING JAYA, Dec 15 — Is it Thai or French food at the newly minted THB Bistonome that sits on the mezzanine floor of Menara Access World?
Perhaps one shouldn't be so rigid about the identity of the dishes here but embrace the unique combination.
THB Bistronome is under the watch of chef-owner Andy Choy and his faithful lieutenant Kuik Wen Han; THB is a name first dreamt up by Choy for the restaurant he planned to open in his hometown Penang.
The name has a double meaning, firstly it's an acronym of "the humble beginning" and the second is a nod towards the Thai baht.
Choy, who trained in French cuisine, believes classics like bisque, duck confit, escargots and even soufflé can be seen through a Thai lens.
Take for instance their Omelet Souffle (RM35), inspired by Bangkok Samlor's take on the Thai crispy omelette or khai jiao, made with an ooh-la-la French soufflé technique.
Think crispy golden bits crowning a soft cloud-like centre that oozes egg yolk when one digs into it.
Fresh frisee, ulam raja and crab meat (an add-on for RM18) surround the golden brown wonder while a Thai piquant green chilli sauce and a deeper red sauce pumps up the spiciness.
At THB Bistronome, Escargots (RM25) are served swimming in butter just like in France minus the shells but here's the twist, it's not parsley and garlic but aromatic Thai herbs, making every bit of that green melted butter something to mop up with bread until every bit is gone.
It's a triumph of a dish that will convert hardcore haters of snails into devoted fans.
It's often said bread served in a restaurant acts as a crystal ball for what's coming for your meal and their fluffy pull-apart Lemongrass Brioche (RM20) served with a Massaman curry butter, with peanuts and a distinct lemongrass aroma tells a story of flavour and a milder touch of spiciness in their dishes.
River Prawn Thermidor (RM78) combines a Thai favourite of grilled freshwater prawns, relished for their rich crustacean flavour, with a layer of melted bechamel and gruyere cheese.
A balance of flavours is the key to this dish since too much of the rich bechamel will overwhelm that delicate seafood flavour.
THB Signature Roast Duck is one to quack about with its juicy meat and crispy skin, best enjoyed with plum sauce, pickles, braised peanuts and jus.
A half portion is RM88 and the whole duck is RM158.
Classic Thai dishes can also be found here like Pad Thai (RM25) with chewy, fried rice noodles served with peanuts and chilli flakes with a touch of lime juice.
The prawns, as an add-on for RM20, may seem indulgent but the grilled prawns are succulent bites, adding a layer of luxe to your noodles.
A meal in Thailand is not complete without sweets and hidden amidst the Red Ruby and Mango Sticky Rice are French twists like their Thai Milk Tea Canele (RM9) where the custard-like centre is infused with the popular drink.
Even the silky smooth custard with the Trio Creme Brulee (RM20) celebrates the holy trinity of coconut, gula Melaka and pandan.
The small cups offer a fun adventure, allowing you to taste each one and playing a game on which one is your favourite.
The coconut one gets a layer of toasted coconut for more flavour while the gula Melaka version is paired with the fragrant syrup while the light green pandan flavour is subtle.
Currently in its soft opening stage, the restaurant is expected to introduce breakfast fare and lunch offerings to cater to those who work at nearby offices.
With its Chef's Table fronting the open kitchen, special menus will also be added depending on availability.
THB Bistronome
Mezzanine Floor, Menara Access World
1, Jalan 19/13,
Section 19, Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 019-8789309
Open: 9am to 10pm (Monday to Friday), 11am to 11pm (Saturday and Sunday)
Instagram: @thbbistronome
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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