SEREMBAN, June 16 — We head to Senawang, a suburb of Seremban. Here, tucked within a modest row of shoplots, Asia Laksa Restaurant has been drawing locals for bowls of their signature — and arguably only — dish.
There’s something particularly encouraging about eateries that pride themselves on a single offering, with a couple of variations at most. Now that is confidence in their craft and their product.
(Plus: For newbies to their charms, such as we are, that’s a sure signal that hollers “Delicious food here!”)
The restaurant itself has that classic aged corner-lot shophouse atmosphere. Faded lemon yellow walls. Old tiled floors rubbed smooth by years of foot traffic. Large round wooden tables occupy most of the dining area, the kind built for family-style eating rather than solitary lunches.
So far, nothing out of the ordinary. Everything we would expect with just about any kopitiam in any neighbourhood, yes?
Watch closely.
Near the entrance, customers cluster around the cooking station, calling out takeaway orders over the clatter of ladles against metal pots. Steam curls upwards in thick ribbons.
This is how the sights and sounds and smells awaken our appetite; reassuring us that our taste buds will soon be tantalised, that our bellies will soon be sated, if only we have the patience to wait a little longer.
What surprises first-time visitors may not be the laksa but the drinks everyone orders while they wait. Instead of kopi (or our favourite order of cham, for that matter), many regulars favour the homemade barley water.
We understand its simple appeal: this light beverage offers relief without dulling the palate. The sweetness is restrained (unless you ask for a sweeter cup); soothing rather than starchy.
Between spoonfuls of curry gravy, every grateful sip of this plain barley water promises to cool scorched lips (not that your lips will truly be scorched; the heat is reasonable, if you ask us).
Then, of course, comes the big bowls of laksa, the reason everyone makes the trek here.
The curry laksa with yong liew is tremendous, if you ask us; the bowl guarantees a feeling of abundance — or, at the very least, a happily expanded waistline by the time you finish.
(I tease; you can order a small sized bowl too, but why would you? Be gluttonous, and dig in!)
The gravy is thick enough to cling stubbornly to every strand of noodle, yet not so rich that it becomes cloying. We first taste the creaminess of santan, then the dried chilli heat, followed by deeper savoury notes that linger at the back of the tongue.
Then there’s the yong liew: fish paste enveloped in layers of soy curd wrapping, bouncy with a nice chew.
Sheets of foo chuk soften at the edges as they absorb the luscious curry, managing this somehow without disintegrating entirely. Tofu puffs swell with spicy broth like tiny sponges.
And let’s not forget the absolutely requisite hard-boiled egg; sliced into half, the better to show off its buttery yolk.
Abundance, as we promised before.
We both agree that we prefer the chicken curry laksa, however.
Whereas some versions elsewhere have the audacity to merely scatter meagre shreds of meat across the bowl without a hint of embarrassment, Asia Laksa Restaurant serves substantial chunks of chicken. Proper protein, this is.
Large pieces, bone-in and deeply infused with curry — now that’s how chicken ought to be, in a decent bowl of curry laksa. The meat separates easily enough with our chopsticks, neither overly soft nor stringy.
This version feels heartier, more muscular somehow. There is a satisfying weight to each spoonful.
Whichever version you prefer, the curry laksa tastes exactly as curry laksa should: unapologetically unctuous, sinfully spicy and deeply comforting.
Asia Laksa Restaurant
341, Jalan Berlian,
Taman Senawang Jaya, Seremban.
Open daily (except Thu closed) 9am-2pm
Phone: 06-677 0667
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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