KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 16 — I was a heavy sceptic at first, but I’ve come to love sits (stylised in lowercase), the tiny wine bar tucked away in an out-of-the-way corner of Arcoris, Mont Kiara.
Between the stuffed peppers, chicken wings and brined beef skewers, the excellent bar food kept me coming back.
On one of those return visits, I learned about its sister restaurant, herbs (also stylised in lowercase), a similarly small and charming spot serving simple Spanish fare with an emphasis on pinchos, tapas and paella.
I knew I had to make a visit at some point.
For a little over two years, herbs sat on Aman Walk, a row of exceedingly hidden shops a little further down the road.
I visited the original space once, and what it lacked in space and comfort it more than compensated for in charm and character.
On October 31, the restaurant moved to join sits in Arcoris, now located across from its sister and between Ra-Ft Café and Basic Wine Store. The new space isn’t much bigger in terms of capacity, but it benefits from the open-patio feel shared by the other outlets in Arcoris.
The move has led to a few changes in the menu; they’ve narrowed the focus to the core offerings.
One of these is the typical Basque snack of pincho — small bites of bread topped with anything from anchovies to peppers or prawns, each held together with a toothpick, which is where the name comes from.
They’re a cornerstone of taverns and bars in the Basque Country, often enjoyed with beer or an easy white wine (the latter is offered here).
Six types of pincho are available, of which we tried three: the boqueron (RM15), topped with anchovy and pickled white onion; the Cantabrian boqueron (RM16), topped with roasted red peppers and anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea, a region renowned for its anchovies; and the Mediterranean eggplant (RM15), topped with a soft mush of eggplant studded with olives.
The boqueron opens the palate with something slightly salty and tangy, but the Cantabrian anchovy is in a class of its own. It’s an intense, briny taste of the ocean, mellowed by the sweetness of the peppers.
From the north, travel down to the centre of Spain with a typical tapas dish from Madrid: grilled pig’s ears.
Oreja de la plancha (RM28) is at its best when it’s both crunchy and chewy from the cartilage and skin, which is the case here.
The strips of ear are dusted with what I suspect is paprika and served with a wedge of lemon — classically madrileño — and a dollop of mayonnaise, though salsa brava is more typical.
Croquetas de carne (RM19) are an evergreen choice, with these crunchy balls filled with meat and topped with a basil mayonnaise.
From the hot tapas section, the gambas al ajillo (RM32) was a mixed bag. The shrimp came in an ample amount of garlicky, spicy olive oil, but the addition of cherry tomatoes, asparagus and green olives is an odd choice. I feel they hinder more than they harmonise.
A simpler, sweeter affair can be found with the clams in white wine (RM32), which begs for a piece of bread to mop up the flavourful juices.
The larger plates impress too. An interesting preparation of chicken, the muslo de pollo a la marsella (RM49), is a pan-seared thigh served on a bed of spinach in a creamy mustard-based sauce, topped with crushed almonds.
It’s like a more rustic, pared-down version of poulet à la moutarde, swapping the rich indulgence of France for the warmth of Spain. It’s delicious.
Proceedings can get even warmer and more Spanish with the estofado de carne con vino tinto (RM43), a comforting stew of beef chunks, potatoes and carrots braised in red wine. A single grilled padrón pepper on top adds a touch of oomph.
But the pièce de résistance is the paella arroz negro (RM49), a celebration of squid, squid ink, clams and little daubs of aioli over rice.
Because these are being made to order in individual portions, there is unfortunately no soccarat (the layer of caramelised rice) to speak of.
Still, it’s a fitting way to conclude a meal here: brimming with satisfaction, and utterly devoid of pretense.
herbs
G-15, Arcoris, Jalan Kiara,
Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-11pm
Tel: 012-821 0288
Instagram: @herbs.montkiara
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and occasionally self-deprecating humour.
