KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 29 — Our appetite for Peranakan food is in full bloom now with many choices opening up in the Klang Valley.
The latest to join the fray is The Secret Foodsmith operated by Florence Wong. They have already made a name for themselves with their nasi ulam and nasi kerabu platters beautifully wrapped in batik, made by order for delivery or catering.
With a dream of opening her own restaurant, this October saw her unveil a hybrid model, where she has carved out a space for dine-in guests within her central kitchen, available only by appointment.
Beautifully decorated with Peranakan motifs, artwork and even a signboard that treads between tradition and modern, where Chinese and English words spell out their name, the space feels very personal.
Even their entrance is framed with artwork by Wong’s talented young son, reminiscent of one of the intricate patterns painted on batik with its profusion of flowers and leaves.
On the menu, all of their dishes from their five-year old delivery business are on tap for your meal in their appointment-only private dining.
Looking back to 2021, during the pandemic when all we could do was search for good food to break the monotony of being unable to go anywhere, I had discovered The Secret Foodsmith when they did individual portions of their nasi ulam and nasi kerabu.
Till today, I can still taste their ultra-juicy ayam percik, generously covered with a rich coconut milk gravy.
Her journey has been charted via social media, where they have grown from just a home based business to expand to their own central kitchen, with a devoted customer base that also includes a string of corporations.
As told to The Star, Wong’s push for her food experiments was ignited by an unsatisfactory nasi kerabu, leading her to create her own version and offering it for delivery.
Since a young age, she’s been fascinated with Peranakan food even though she’s not a Nyonya and for her business, she researched and tested recipes extensively, tweaking it to suit her tastebuds and building from dishes she had tasted before.
Dining here requires just another layer of planning ahead, as you select the dishes the day before, placing the order by 8pm.
As we wanted to try out more items on their menu, the focus shifted beyond their popular platters but we did try out their Nasi Ulam with Cencaru Rempah (RM31).
The herbaceous rice is fragrant and appetising just on its own with finely sliced herbs.
The stuffed fish is a big favourite for all of us and this version uses hardtail scad mackerel generously stuffed with moist, mild tasting sambal.
Everyone has their own version of Jiu Hu Char (RM27), a classic Peranakan dish that always graces every dining table.
This version retains a more refreshing crunch for their shredded yam bean dotted with strings of dried cuttlefish and thick cut shiitake mushrooms, accompanied by an awesome sambal belacan that punches up the flavours several notches up.
Create your own wrap with the lettuce leaves by placing a dollop of the yam bean and of course, a generous portion of sambal belacan with a very distinct fragrance of the toasted fermented shrimp paste.
Gulai Tumis Stingray (415 grams for RM89) is a much fresher take on an appetising curry that is a mainstay for any Peranakan meal, best enjoyed with rice.
Using tomatoes, pineapple, lady fingers and lots of herbs like torch ginger flower, the curry retains its tangy core albeit a lighter version, which will appeal to everyone.
As stingray fish is used, it’s cut into pieces and perfectly cooked with soft slippery flesh.
Ayam Buah Keluak (RM45) used to be a rarity but with so many raves about this Melaka style dish, it is now found on many menus.
The chicken pieces are served in a thick curry generously peppered with torn kaffir lime leaves and the laboriously prepared keluak nuts.
Each nut is prepped for easy access, allowing one to easily dig out the keluak’s earthy paste and mix it with the curry.
Depending on which day you visit, there are different pengat served for dessert ranging from a gingery Sweet Potato Soup with red beans, Tiga Sekawan with three types of beans (mung beans, red beans and black eye beans) and Pulut Hitam with black glutinous rice.
Bubur Cha Cha Kaw (RM9) was our choice for a sweet ending with bowls of warm, rich coconut milk sweetened with gula Melaka that included sweet potato mingling with taro, black-eye beans and sago pearls.
The Secret Foodsmith (By appointment only)
39-0, Jalan 1/109E,
Desa Business Centre,
Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur.
Open: 11.30am to 2.30pm. Closed on Sunday.
WhatsApp: 010-2254259
