KAJANG, Sept 30 — Chicken, tofu, eggs. At first glance, a humble enough trio, but here they arrive transformed, darkened by soy sauce and spices.
The skin of the chicken drumstick has taken on a dark gloss, the flesh beneath promising tenderness. Tofu, that soft blank canvas, is no longer pale but painted by the braising broth. The hard-boiled egg is stained tea-brown, redolent of star anise and cinnamon.
This is the braised chicken dish at Home & Kitchen Kopitiam in Sungai Chua, Kajang. Served with warm rice, a side of pickles and a saucer of chilli sauce, it is a taste of Chinese home cooking, refracted through the lens of a Malaysian kopitiam kitchen.
Simple, but in the way of simple things, also complete.
Entering the space feels more like dropping by a relative’s cosy home than visiting a café. The structure is still that of a house, albeit with table seating both inside and outside.
Space is at a premium inside; tables fill quickly so it’s best to arrive before the lunch rush. Some may prefer to sit outside, to enjoy the fresh air. To each their own.
There is a small concrete pond at the side of the house; here, the resident terrapins bask lazily. Children marvel at these slow creatures, delighted, whilst parents linger over their kopi.
Indeed, the nod to kopitiam tradition extends to the drinks. For us, our usual order of iced cham — that beloved marriage of coffee and tea — provides the perfect antidote to the afternoon heat. A sweet and caffeinated midday pick-me-up.
Beyond the aforementioned braised chicken dish, however, the true standout has to be the nasi lemak ayam rendang. Every grain of rice is distinct yet fragrant with coconut milk. The chicken rendang is dark and intense, its sauce heavy with spices and slow cooking.
For regulars, other favourites include the chicken curry with fried or steamed buns, beehoon soup with fish slices and bitter gourd, and the curry laksa.
We decided to share a bowl of cendol for dessert. A miniature landscape: emerald-green strands tumbling across shaved ice, sweet mashed red beans, creamy-white coconut milk, the molasses-darkness of gula Melaka.
By the time we finish, the place has become quite packed with hungry diners on their lunch break. The once empty tables outside are now claimed by customers waiting for their food, the air stirred by slow-turning fans. The carpark is nearly full too.
Driving away, we carry with us not only the satisfaction of a meal but also the sense of a place that makes no grand gestures, only small, steady offerings.
A house turned kopitiam, a home kitchen opened to the public. A reminder that comfort, be it in what we eat or where we are, can be found anywhere… if we look hard enough.
Home & Kitchen Kopitiam, Kajang
616, Jalan 19, Kampung Baru Sungai Chua, Kajang
Open Mon-Sat 8am-6pm
Phone: 03-8211 1997
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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