KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 29 — Believe us, there’s no need to get squeamish when you eat otak-otak. Even though it literally means brains when translated from Malay, probably because of its quite similar texture. It is a popular mainstay for Nyonya food especially in Penang, where you can find it served in restaurants or even economy rice places. 

The work for preparing this dish starts from making an aromatic spice paste which uses chillies, lemongrass, turmeric, galangal and toasted shrimp paste or belacan. Usually rice flour or glutinous rice flour is also added to the mixture, as this prevents it from being too watery after steaming. 

Traditionally the spice paste is pounded in a mortar and pestle but modern appliances like blenders have replaced this tedious work in the kitchen. The spice paste will be mixed together with coconut milk, beaten eggs and thin strips of kaffir lime leaves. 

Some recipes call for the fish to be mixed together. If you prefer your otak-otak to have more bite, place the boneless fish separately. 

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Prior to wrapping the parcels, the banana leaves are cut into small pieces and softened with boiling water or over a naked flame. A few pieces of daun kaduk or wild pepper leaves are placed in the middle of the banana leaf topped with a piece of boneless fish. 

The mixed spice paste will be dolloped over the fish. Subsequently the banana leaf is wrapped into a parcel shape and secured with a toothpick. The parcels will be steamed until it is set. You can enjoy the otak-otak together with a plate of white rice or even toast. 

Good versions have a slightly creamy texture with slight firmness from the chunks of fish inside it. It must also be fragrant from the lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and daun kaduk

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In Malaysia, another popular version is the Muar type. Instead of steaming like the Penang version, the fish is mixed with a bright orange spice paste and placed in between banana leaves and then grilled over a hot fire. Very often, stall owners will leave a basket of the grilled otak-otak on your table for you to snack on.

Restoran Yong Len, 2, Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 1, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, KL. Open: 7.30am to 3pm. Closed on Mondays.

Better known for its Penang prawn mee, this corner restaurant also has a stall that sells all kinds of kuih, cakes, bak chang, steamed pau and otak-otak. Wrapped in neat banana leaf parcels, the otak-otak is made by a lady who delivers to this stall on a daily basis. You can purchase the parcels at room temperature, or eat them heated up at the restaurant. Open the parcel to discover an elongated otak-otak with a smooth texture studded with daun kaduk and a generous piece of boneless fish fillet inside it. It tends to be mildly spicy.

Kafe Pin Chou, 14, Jalan SS2/103, PJ. Open: 7.30am to 2pm. Closed on Sundays.

This neighbourhood eatery is well hidden within the quieter SS2 area near the Bomba station. Run by Penangites, it has a small menu of popular Penang fare, like prawn mee, curry mee, Penang-style chee cheong fun with prawn paste, Hokkien char and mee rebus. Prawn mee is available only for Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. For lunch, they offer economy rice items. Other popular snacks include yam cake and tong sui. The mildly spicy otak-otak is made by a third party. As you eat the creamy otak-otak, discover fish and daun kaduk within.

Nyonya Colors, FK106, First Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama, PJ. Open daily: 10am to 10pm. 

The otak-otak here comes in a dainty banana leaf package, which one can probably consume in two to three bites. It’s topped with chopped red chillies and an abundance of shredded kaffir lime leaves that gives it a nice fragrance. Steamed coconut milk curds are scooped around the otak-otak to give it a creamier texture. Taste-wise it delivers a punchy kick with a saltier taste. Find it at all their outlets but try to order it earlier in the day as it tends to run out by the end of the day. 

Lorong Seratus Tahun, 56, Jalan SS2/66, PJ. Open daily: 7.30am to 11pm. 

Originally serving curry mee, this place has expanded its menu to include Penang specialties to cater to a larger crowd. The otak-otak offered here is good for a quick snack with its spicy taste and minced fish served with an abundant amount of daun kaduk.

Little Yum Yum, Kota Damansara, E-45-G, Jalan Teknologi 3/9, Kota Damansara, PJ. Open: 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 9.30pm. (Tuesdays to Saturdays). 4pm to 9.30pm (Sundays). Closed on Mondays.

Living up to its yummy name, this eatery serves up a mix of Nyonya, Thai and Chinese dishes. The otak-otak here is delicious with a mild taste that goes well with the home styled dishes. Other recommended eats here include their basil pesto prawns, pandan chicken and omelette topped with wholesome minced meat and onions.