BANGKOK, May 22 — It’s a short stretch of just about 2.5 kilometres, from Mercury Ville shopping mall to Lumpini Park, but Soi Langsuan manages to fit in quite a few attractions and conveniences.
This upscale area is where chef Gaggan Anand’s eponymous restaurant, named Asia’s best, has its address in a colonial bungalow and counts among his neighbours the Thai-Chinese restaurant and local favourite, Khrua Nai Baan.
The tallest buildings on this road are the serviced residences that appeal to a cosmopolitan crowd of mid-and long-term visitors. Catering to the same demographics are a plethora of quaint cafes serving gourmet coffees, hearty brunches and a good mix of international and fusion cuisines. Here’s a guide to eating your way through Soi Langsuan, with a meaningful coffee break thrown in. Use Mercury Ville as your starting point (Chit Lom BTS station, Exit 4) and walk towards Lumpini Park.
Eat clean at Be Organic by Lemon Farm
Your first stop is The Portico, a community mall tenanted by a mix of restaurants and service shops. Facing the main road is Be Organic by Lemon Farm, a cheerful cafe and supermarket that sells packaged food, dry and fresh produce including wild, formalin-free fish. You can dine in-house and order from a menu of soups, vegetarian dishes and seafood meals paired with fresh juices or teas. For desserts, try their organic ice-cream.
Browse the aisles of the adjoining supermarket where, besides skincare and household items, there are also products for treating your pets with some tender, organic care. You’ll find a good range of imported as well as local brands, and unique offerings such as facial scrub pellets made from Thai silk cocoons and coconut jelly mask.
Leave your phone at the door for a Spoonful of zakka
Climb up the stairs to the second floor and prepare to enter the Japanese treasure chest that is zakka store and cafe, Spoonful. Fully supportive of the slow life approach, the store doesn’t allow photography or even encourage the usage of any electronic devices. Instead, just enjoy the space and be in the moment while surrounded by gorgeous Japanese designs — covetable items include painted porcelain plates, Japanese brand w.p.c.’s rain ponchos, and enamel cookware — and enjoying a slice of cake with your drink. You may want to mark this restful nook for later in the day, when you’re done cafe-hopping and are ready to take a proper break.
Starbucks’ first Community Store outside the USA
Continue on until you come to what some have dubbed the most beautiful Starbucks in the world — at least this part of the world. With tall grey-white columns supporting the entrance and traditional motifs in the gables, the elegant building looks like an upscale Thai home from decades past shrouded by lush greens and indeed, that was the inspiration.
And it’s not just another Starbucks outlet but the coffee empire’s first Community Store in Asia, where THB10 (RM1) from every drink sold is channelled to Thailand’s coffee-growing community. The store also sells the first Thai blend, named Muan Jai, that’s concocted from local coffee beans and described as “peppery, earthy and full-bodied”. Proceeds from sales (5 per cent) go towards supporting those communities in northern Thailand. To date, THB4 million (RM454,000) has been donated to the Integrated Tribal Development Program to support a community support centre in Chiangmai.
So have your cuppa and do good at the same time, while enjoying the store’s rustic chic interior decor or if the weather is kind, relax al fresco in the little garden area.
Six to Twelve and beyond
The Urbana Langsuan is one of many serviced apartments along this road but even non-staying guests have a reason to step in — this casual eatery with a fine dining ambience that’s dressed in timeless grey tones. Fresh flowers dot the lofty space that’s blessed by high ceilings and cosy sofa-style seating.
Their dishes pair Western favourites with Thai flavours, resulting in satisfying plates such as the Pad Thai Moo Mantou, a marriage of soft Chinese buns and Pad Thai. Tender pork slices bathed in a sweetish sauce is piled atop bean sprouts, garnished with ground peanuts and coriander, and topped with a runny egg. Ask for chilli and you’ll be presented with the ubiquitous Thai four-condiment tray of chilli flakes, sugar, red chilli in vinegar, and nam pla (fish sauce). Wash it all down with a refreshing Honey Plum soda.
The Hen And The Egg: Which came first?
At this street-front cafe, it’s the egg that comes first. Everyone’s favourite protein takes precedence in their all-day breakfast menu where your options range from the classics such as omelette and Eggs Benedict to the ‘Eggstrodinary’ (deluxe scrambled eggs). If you have room for just one dish, make it an ‘Eggcellent’ one. Described simply as “soft-boiled eggs with truffle [sic] dressing”, it is actually a lot fancier than that. What you get is a beautifully wobbly sous vide egg served with salsa, capers, tobiko, ikura, pickled shallots, micro herbs and a piece of toast.
Their ice blended coconut juice is another winner (though not necessarily the best pairing with the egg) that’s as fresh as it gets — the coconut is juiced upon order, blended to a slightly chunky consistency, and served in the coconut itself.
Crepe & Co, thin and crispy
The Bruttin brothers opened their first creperie in Bangkok in 1996, on Sukhumvit Soi 12, and has since branched into four outlets while maintaining the same traditional recipes, authentic Mediterranean fare and a homey, family-friendly atmosphere. This outlet in Langsuan, in a charming white-washed wooden bungalow, certainly has that welcoming vibe that makes you feel right at home. There are cushy sofas, plush toys for the kids and if you head upstairs, you’ll find a feature wall lined with classic photographs.
The menu is extensive, with more than 350 items including tens of variants (sweet and savoury) of their popular crepes, galettes and pancakes. The Sukhumvit, named in honour of their original outlet, combines chicken pieces with onion fondue and tomatoes in a béchamel sauce. You can have it in their original recipe crepe, which replaces buckwheat with local ingredients, or folded into a crispy galette.
Be Organic by Lemon Farm
Ground Floor, The Portico, 31 Soi Langsuan
Tel + 66 02 658 1975
Opens 11am-9pm daily, last order at 8.20pm
Spoonful Zakka Cafe
Level 2, The Portico, 31 Soi Langsuan
Tel + 66 02 652 2278
Opens 11am-9pm daily
Starbucks Community Store
39 Soi Langsuan
Tel + 66 02 6841 525
Opens 7am-10pm daily
all Six To Twelve cafe & social bar
Urbana Langsuan, No 1, 55 Soi Langsuan
Tel + 66 02 250 6799
Opens 6am-12am daily
www.facebook.com/allsixtotwelve
Crepe & Co
59/4 Langsuan Soi 1
Tel + 66 02 652 0208
Opens 9am-11pm, Mon-Sat; 8am-11pm, Sun
The Hen And The Egg
64 Soi Langsuan
Tel +66 08 155 2309-9
Opens 7am-5pm, Tue-Thu; 7am-9.30pm, Fri-Sun; closed Mon
Vivian Chong spends about half her time in Bangkok and is getting to know the city one neighbourhood at a time. Read her other travel stories at http://thisbunnyhops.com/
