KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 21 -- When it comes to a great wantan mee, it’s hard to find one which gets all the different elements perfect, from the texture of the noodles, to the toppings and the wantans on the side.
Most stalls seem to focus on the noodles, where the ultimate noodles must have a “QQ” or al dente texture with a bit of bite.
Most noodle makers add alkaline water or kan sui to give it that slight spring. One of the traditional methods still practised here to give the noodles a bouncy texture is to press the dough of egg, flour and water by sitting on a long bamboo log. Some refer to this variety of noodles as chok sing mee or bamboo noodles.
Even if the noodles are top notch, a person’s cooking skill can determine whether your bowl of noodles has a springy texture. Each master has their own techniques, but usually the noodles are first cooked in boiling water for a few seconds before they are ladled out and given a cold water bath to get rid of the alkaline taste.
That method of rapidly changing temperatures firms up the strands giving them a springier texture. After they go through the cold water rinse, they are dipped into the hot water again to heat them up, drained and quickly tossed in the sauce.
Next comes the sauce, an important element to give the noodles taste – a mix of dark soy sauce, soy sauce and oil. Each stall has its own concoction, and some even lace it with homemade stock to give the noodles a sweeter taste.
A big stumbling block to getting the equation right for a plate of wantan mee is the toppings. Traditionally, the noodles are topped with wafer thin slices of char siew, the type that looks like fake dry tasteless meat tinged red with a hard texture and very little fat.
It’s not easy to get juicy charred char siew cut into chunky bites for you to enjoy. You’re better off trying shops that specialise in char siew, who serve it with passable egg noodles.
At some wantan mee places, even if their char siew is perfect with a juicy and charred texture, you find they cut it into paper-thin slices due to the current cost crunch.
As an alternative, ask for other toppings for your noodles. Most stalls now offer items like curry chicken, braised chicken feet and shiitake mushrooms, Hakka char yoke and the list goes on.
Even Hong Kong-styled noodles topped with the fragrant dried shrimp roe are making an appearance on our local shores.
Next it’s the wantans, those cloud-like dumplings. You’ll want them to be filled with juicy pork and prawn mince. Some still put in the fragrant toasted dried sole powder or chor hau yee. Remember to pair your noodles with pickled green chillies that are more tangy rather than fiery for a perfect meal.
Loong Sifu Bamboo Noodle House
No. 4, Jalan Lazat, Happy Garden, Kuala Lumpur
Open: 7.30am to 4.30pm.
This nondescript stall along the “wai sek kai” serves bamboo noodles, as it shares the same owner as Nippy Noodles in Kuchai Lama that is famed for their springy noodles. The texture of the noodles are perfect, but their sides, like their chunky wantans, sui kow and braised chicken feet with mushrooms fall short in terms of taste. You will also find the more unusual har chee meen here, topped with aromatic dried shrimp roe.
Restoran Good Friend
Jalan Brunei, (next to Caltex petrol station) Kuala Lumpur
Open: 6.30am to 1pm.
The strength of this stall lies in the skill of the old master in getting the noodles cooked perfectly to a smooth texture. One can’t fault their topping of chunky char siew with the additional bonus of pork mince. The wantans are passable though not the best we have tried. Our only gripe is the long wait, about 30-45 minutes on a busy day.
Toong Kwoon Chye
9 Jalan Bintang, Kuala Lumpur
Open: 8am to 7pm. Closed alternate Wednesdays.
Harking back to the 1930s, this place run by three generations of the Yap family is often forgotten by many. Nowadays, MRT works have even sealed off the entrance to Jalan Bukit Bintang making this place even more hidden. Come here for their smooth noodles tossed in a slightly sweet dark soy sauce. Avoid the char siew version with its dry thin slices and opt for better choices like their chicken curry, Hakka char yoke, and braised chicken feet with mushrooms. Their wantans are superb with silky skins and an aromatic pork and prawn filling with a hint of dried sole powder.
Stall opposite Restoran Langkapuri, Jalan Gelugor, Klang
Open: 10.30am to 1pm. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
A testament to the popularity of this second generation family stall is the doppelganger stall operating next to it, hoping to catch unsuspecting customers. Their superb thin homemade noodles take centrestage, with a sauce mixed with broth that gives them a silky texture. The next star is the tiny wantans filled with pork mince wrapped on site by the original owner of the stall, an old lady. The only disappointment is the dry and forgettable paper thin char siew slices.
Restoran Jie Mee
18, Ground Floor, Jalan Sri Hartamas 8, Kuala Lumpur
Open: 7.30am to 4pm. Closed alternate Mondays.
Previously at Jalan Batai, the sisters now operate from a standalone shop at Sri Hartamas. Their traditional bamboo made noodles have a nice springy texture. The wantans are good too with a fragrant filling. However, with cost cutting, their delicious char siew slices are now wafer thin. Opt instead for the newly introduced dry chicken curry tossed in the noodles for a better choice. Their curry noodles remain good with rich thick curry broth, topped with cockles, long beans, poached chicken and tofu puffs.
