KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 11 — While new places that shine bright as a diamond are nice, sometimes places like Jin Ji Xiang Restaurant, an eatery with more than 100 years of legacy, are even better,
On one visit, I overheard a diner saying to her friends, “This is the taste of my childhood”.
Here, food is simple fare. What elevates it is a reverence for fresh ingredients, their own brewed soy sauce and the upholding of traditions.
This place has a brigade of foreign women cooking under the watchful eyes of third generation owner Dr Lee while his wife takes orders.
Dr Lee, who was a university professor in biochemistry in the US for many years, returned to Malaysia about 25 years ago to take over the family business.
In Chinese newspaper articles found at the restaurant you can read about the origins of the restaurant which started in Cheras, near a tin mine area.
In the 1960s, it moved due to development.
The old place was popular with tin miners who would entertain officials there. Back in the old days, there were banquet style dishes, stir fried items and snacks.
You will notice various Chinese books and items all around the restaurant as Dr Lee is interested in Chinese culture.
His dream is to teach others how to appreciate Chinese culture at a place he hopes to open in Ara Damansara.
The moment you climb up the steps to the restaurant which is underneath a block of apartments, you will be greeted by their open kitchen.
There’s a row of poached whole chickens hanging at one side. Near the stove, there are trays that hide goodies. Open them up to discover an assortment of yong tau foo.
It’s a small selection, with just four varieties. What makes them different is they’re hefty, compared to those lightweight yong tau foo fashioned from fish paste, we usually see.
These chunky bites are prepared like in the good old days, stuffed with a mixture of fresh fish paste and fatty pork.
There’s bright red chillies glistening in a wok, winking at you... inviting you to order them. Or go for the interesting egg yong tau foo, where an omelette coddles a piece of pan fried filling of fish and pork.
A row of patties can also be seen, toasted on both sides till each one has a golden hue. You may also find a tube shaped yong tau foo. Hidden inside, there’s chopped bits of rehydrated dried oysters, giving it a nice umami kick.
The chilli yong tau foo is RM3.30 per piece, while the other varieties are RM3.70 each.
Don’t forget to also order a bowl of meen kan or gluten puffs (RM13 for five pieces). The silky soft puff is stuffed with fish paste, making it a comforting bite, and served with a clear soup.
Start building your meal here with protein. The poached chicken (RM26 for two portions) is the crowd favourite. The skin has a smooth bite, as they use ma chou (horse grass) chicken, while the flesh is succulent with a slightly firm bite.
What makes it even more enticing is the soy sauce and oil mix they bathe the chicken in. It uses their own brewed soy sauce that has a silky texture with a touch of sweetness.
Here, they give you plain, fluffy rice to pair with your chicken but you won’t miss the usual oil rice, as the dishes are flavourful on their own.
I thought the chicken was my favourite until I tried the braised duck (RM25 for a small portion). As they use fresh duck, the meat is tender and not gamey like what we usually get.
It’s not like the usual braised duck as the sauce doesn’t use herbs and spices. Instead it’s more the taste of soy sauce. Definitely an eye opener, making me undecided which I prefer.
Will it be the chicken or duck for my next meal here? What a dilemma.
The duck is served on a footed plate, just like how the old places would present their dishes.
Don’t forget the vegetables too.
The eggplant with prawns (RM25) is simply divine. You get eggplant with soft flesh mixed with springy small prawns doused in that umami sauce made with their special recipe, which includes fermented shrimp paste.
Or order the ham choy, a small bowl of chunky chopped preserved mustard greens that compliments the meal as it’s not overly salty while the vegetables still have a bit of bite.
Meals here may pinch the wallet since prices are higher than the norm. But what you get in return after a meal here is priceless, a taste of nostalgia that satisfies the soul and stomach.
Jin Ji Xiang Restaurant, 1B-00-01, Pangsapuri Melur, Merdeka Villa Apartment, 236 Jalan Merdeka, Kampung Baru Ampang, Ampang. Open: 10am to 2.30pm. Closed on Sunday.
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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