KUALA LUMPUR, July 17 — What comes to mind when one thinks of Taman United?
The horrific peak-hour traffic on Old Klang Road perhaps? Better yet, what comes to mind when one hears of a “social club” in Taman United?
Whatever it is, it probably isn’t anything like Soon Heng Social Club.
Located above a tea shop, the restaurant can only really be spotted at night, when its neon sign comes out to play.
The hawk-eyed may also notice Soon Heng’s vintage sign above the stairway — acquired from an antique collector in Kajang, it is one of many curated pieces that build out the retro-themed Chinese interior.
Folding screens. String curtains. A slew of old-timey knick-knacks. The whole place feels like both a far cry from and a sly nod to its actual location.
I’d long kept tabs on Soon Heng through its social media, but was surprised to learn it's been open since early 2019.
I’ve seen enough “cool” retro-revival concepts come and go to have grown cynical about them.
That Soon Heng survived the pandemic — and everything since — was enough to override my scepticism toward theme restaurants generally.
Despite the Chinese name, decor and overall theme, Soon Heng’s food is firmly “Western” or Euro-adjacent.
Kale salad with jamon serrano, grilled octopus with harissa, gambas al ajillo, three types of pasta, steak, pork chops, and duck confit form the basis of the focused but comprehensive menu.
Heading the kitchen is Jack Chang, the younger of Soon Heng's founding brothers and a graduate of Sunway's Le Cordon Bleu culinary program, while the elder Chang, Larry, runs the bar and front-of-house operations.
They’re assisted by a team that isn’t the most polished but is eager, alert, and efficient — which is more than can be said for the zombie-like service at half the restaurants in KL right now.
As the velvety crooning of Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Astrud Gilberto took turns breezing through the room, the unmistakable perfume of garlic and shrimp punctuated the air.
Gambas al ajillo (RM45), a classic Spanish tapas of shrimp in olive oil, garlic and chilli flakes, is almost ubiquitous owing to its perceived simplicity.
But the many pale imitations around town are evidence that simple food isn't easy.
Soon Heng keeps things simple, but gets it right.
At its core, gambas al ajillo isn't about the shrimp — though these king prawns are plump and tender — or even the garlic. It's about the oil, which, when done right, carries layer after layer of sweet, spicy garlic, shrimp and chilli flavours.
The crusty sourdough slices on the side are the optimal vessel for transporting said oil, although I'm partial to the occasional spoonful down the Strait of My Throat.
This promising start was followed up by an impressive showing with the mains, of which Soon Heng requires each guest to order at least one.
A very reasonable minimum order policy in my eyes.
A large section is dedicated to steaks, of which Soon Heng offers five different types, all at 250g, starting from an Argentinian corn fed New York strip at RM75 and topping out at an Australian MB7 (marble score 7) Full Blood Wagyu Ribeye for RM180.
But what caught my eye was the offer of picanha, a speciality cut used for churrasco, a traditional Brazilian-style barbecue where steaks are skewered and grilled whole.
Known in English as the rump cap, it's my favourite cut of beef — intensely beefy in the meat, with a thick layer of fat on the outside.
It's slowly gaining ground, but it remains a rarity outside of a dedicated steakhouse.
Soon Heng usually offers an Argentine Black Angus picanha at RM130, but on that night, they only had an Australian MB7 Full Blood Wagyu picanha at RM168.
It's an investment for sure, but when it arrived with a thick, intact fat cap and edge-to-edge medium rare doneness, it felt worth every penny.
It comes with a pile of Maldon sea salt, Beaufor whole grain mustard, truffled mash, grilled leeks and a deep brown burnt onion citrus sauce.
Truth be told, the sauce was wholly unnecessary. A cut of meat like this deserves just a touch of salt, or even the slightest smidge of mustard.
For an alternative to steak, the French duck leg confit (RM49) with a mixed berry sauce, mash and grilled seasonal vegetables is a solid option.
Duck leg confit is a classic French dish, the leg cooked slowly in its own fat, and Soon Heng achieves the requisite crisp skin without drying out the interior.
Someone definitely paid attention in class.
But I think the best bang for your buck lies in the thick pieces of grilled pork shoulder chop (RM45). Hunks of moist, juicy pork shoulder come coated in a thin, slightly peppery, onion-y sauce, joined by dollops of sweet apple purée, a side salad, and both sweet potato and regular fries.
That plate alone is a completely balanced meal, start to finish, and it's the most approachably priced protein on the menu. An absolute winner.
I was beginning to think Soon Heng would run out of surprises by then, but it had one last trick up its sleeve.
Apart from gelato and sorbet, there are only two desserts offered: a "Bojicha" (Bailey's and hojicha) tiramisu (RM27) and Kylie's citrus blossom cream tart (RM18).
We opted for the former, curious to see how the roasted character of hojicha would stand in for coffee's usual role. And you know what? It was a pretty good approximation.
Not bad for a retro-themed Chinese social club. Not bad at all.
Soon Heng Social Club
32A, Jalan Sepadu,
Taman United, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Wednesday to Sunday, 5.30-11pm
Tel: 018-668 7204
Facebook: Soon Heng Social Club
Instagram: @soonheng_
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more unfiltered takes on food and wine.
