KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 1 — Every day, this humble gerai hidden within a food court at Pantai Dalam sees a long line of people patiently waiting for their roti canai.
Mazlan Ahmad Abdullah (Haji Lan), 56, has been selling his roti canai for the past 33 years; the draw for many is his soft, fluffy and non-greasy roti canai made with from a dough rich with Planta margarine, milk, sugar and salt. The stall also sells roti telur, roti bom, roti sardin and roti pisang.
As a young boy, from age 15, he started earning his keep in Banting, his hometown. The Javanese descendant is the ninth son of 13 children; he knew he had to learn a skill to survive in the world after he completed his Form Three education.
From sweeping floors, he slowly rose up the ranks and learned how to make roti canai at the mamak stalls in Banting. Later he relocated to RW Cafe, an eatery at Section 16 Shah Alam.
In 1983, the 23-year-old opened his own stall in Kampung Kerinchi. The enterprising young man decided to cater to the students in nearby Universiti Malaya. The students would often order his roti canai to be delivered to them.
As word spread about his delicious roti canai, he garnered many fans. Till today, some return for his roti canai even though they have moved far away to Ulu Kelang!
It was in 1994, when development took over the Kerinchi area, that Haji Lan relocated to his present premises in Pantai Dalam.
What also sets it apart from other stalls is the thick creamy dhal. Prepared the evening before, the lentils are slowly cooked with chopped shallots and beef to allow the flavours to come through.
It is made from a recipe that Haji Lan got from his previous employer but he tweaked it over the years and is now truly his own. The gerai is very generous as dine-in customers can ladle up unlimited dhal and spicy sambal themselves.
Walk in during the stall’s peak hours of 7am to 9am and don’t be surprised to see a long queue at the stall. As Haji Lan insists on making every roti canai fresh, it takes time. Your patience will be rewarded with a hot fluffy off-the-griddle roti canai!
On weekends, an additional griddle is opened outside. This is manned by Haji Lan’s third son Mohd Faris who has been helping him out at the stall. His youngest son Mohd Asyraf has also been helping out after completing his SPM exams.
There are many regular customers from around the area. Kak Azmas from Kerinchi braves the morning crowds about three times a week. Her regular order is a little unusual as it’s round versus the usual square-shaped roti canai.
We sample her version and it’s crispier. Since it takes longer for it to be shaped into a circle, Haji Lan only makes it for regulars or those who can afford to wait for this special version after peak hours.
Haji Lan’s wife prepares their nasi lemak bungkus — wrapped in brown waxed paper and banana leaf. Expect a spicy kick from the sambal served with the densely compressed rice.
She also fries up an assortment of noodles; mee, beehoon and kuey teow plus nasi goreng for breakfast. You can also pick up curry puffs and sugar coated doughnuts that are supplied to the stall. Drinks are also served by the same stall and their teh tarik is creamy and not overly sweet, making it an excellent accompaniment to your fluffy roti canai.
Haji Lan Roti Canai
Gerai No. 74, Medan Selera Dataran Seri Angkasa Jaya, Pantai Dalam, KL
Opens daily: 6.30am to 1pm
Tel: 019-351 9909
