TOKYO, March 24 — Ephemeral. That’s the word that always comes to mind when I consider the “here today, gone tomorrow” quality of these pale pink or snowy white blossoms, their fragile petals ready to fall to the ground or be whisked off by the wind at a moment’s notice.
That’s right: sakura season is back.
Springtime in Japan — from the end of March to April every year — the sakura or cherry blossoms are in full bloom. The first cherry trees to flower tend to be the ones in the southernmost prefecture of Okinawa (some as early as February!) whilst coming in last are those in northernmost Hokkaido, as late as the end of May.
For the rest of Japan, however, the flowering season starts now. In Tokyo and Kyoto, two of the best cities for hanami (“flower viewing”), old and young alike make the most of this brief period to catch the pink-petalled yaezakura and the bell-shaped kanhizakura (and nearly 200 other varieties of sakura!).
Here are seven stunningly beautiful spots to catch these pristine and graceful blossoms, by day or night, on land or on water.
We begin with one of the most popular places for hanami, particularly when it involves picnics beneath the flowering branches: Ueno Park in northern Tokyo.
Formally known as Ueno Onshi Koen (or “Ueno Imperial Gift Park”), the main boulevard with its long rows of cherry trees on both sides is popular with everyone from teenagers and salarymen to senior citizens in traditional garb.
The thickly flowering branches above your head while strolling along the boulevard — brimming with alabaster-hued someiyoshino and the mountain cherry or yamazakura — are part of the appeal.
Some visitors are devotees here to pray at the Kiyomizu Kannondo Temple, dedicated to the Japanese Goddess of Mercy, whilst others are more keen on the street food near the Shinobazu Pond.
For a less rowdy atmosphere, Shinjuku Gyoen, a beloved public park near the quiet-during-day, vibrant-at-night Shinjuku Ni-chome neighbourhood, might be more your cup of tea.
The carefully landscaped park is home to over one thousand cherry trees, from the early-to-flower kanzakura to the late blooming kikuzakura with its many petals.
Such a forgiving and long sakura schedule means you’re guaranteed of a view to remember as the different cherry trees take turns to flower.
So sit back, enjoy your picnic lunch (packed at home or bought as bentos from the nearest depachika food hall) and slowly sip on hot tea as you make the most of the crisp weather and transient daylight.
Of course, one doesn’t always need daylight for hanami. Another favourite springtime pastime in Japan is yozakura or night sakura.
At dusk, some famous hanami spots will be illuminated so you may continue to view cherry blossoms in the evening, albeit with a tad more of a surreal feeling.
One of the best ways to experience yozakura is by sauntering down Kiyamachi-dori in Kyoto. Spanning a one-kilometre stretch of Takase River, this street is essentially the hub of Kyoto’s nightlife with many bars and restaurants... and cherry trees that light up at night.
There’s something ethereal about the contrast of tiny pink sakura buds and the bright red lanterns that announce which izakaya is open for business (which, in the evening, is all of them). There is song and dance, and an overall playful atmosphere amongst the pedestrians (not all of them drunk).
For a more sedate (relatively, at least) ambience, walk to nearby Maruyama Park, through the night market that takes place around Yasaka Shrine.
As with Ueno Park by day, you might be distracted by the plethora of Japanese street food on offer, from ikayaki (grilled squid) to takoyaki (octopus balls).
But persist, and you’ll arrive at the heart of Maruyama Park where a stately 80-year-old shidarezakura (weeping cherry tree) awaits you. It’s the largest cherry tree in the park, and possibly all of Kyoto.
If impressive by day, when its countless blooms are illuminated at nightfall, well, the effect can only be described as otherworldly.
Need more fireworks in your flora? Head to Nijo Castle in the northern part of Kyoto. A Unesco World Heritage Site, the former imperial palace has some of the most awe-inspiring night illumination shows — and this extends to its cherry orchard that seems to be blossoming in “flames”, offering a rather fiery yozakura performance.
Perhaps you’re seeking something less intense. Head back to Tokyo for some hanami on water. That’s right, on water! Specifically enjoying the views of cherry blossoms on river banks whilst drifting slowly on boats.
From Nijo Castle in Kyoto, we turn to the Tokyo Imperial Palace in the capital. At its north-western corner, there is a flurry of cherry trees surrounding the palace moat. This area is called Chidorigafuchi and it’s a favourite amongst young families and pet owners due to its serene nature.
Rent a boat and row along the circuitous route around the moat; what could be more romantic than the view of hundreds of cherry trees lining each bank or the gentle breeze that brings a shower of sakura petals upon you?
The answer to that might be champagne.
For those who enjoy a little bubbly with their hanami, make a beeline to Meguro River where you can enjoy a decadent champagne picnic on private sightseeing cruises.
A sip of the chilled wine as you take in the clouds of cherry blossoms tumbling down from both sides of the Hinodebashi Bridge — now that’s the life!
(Why not just bring your own beverages? Well, unlike at Ueno Park and Shinjuku Gyoen, visitors are not allowed to picnic on the river banks here at Meguro River nor at Chidorigafuchi.)
Be it on land or by water, during day or at night, enjoying cherry blossoms during haru (Japanese for springtime) can be a moving experience. It’s a reminder about how fleeting life is — these beautiful blooms may only last days — and how precious.
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