KUALA LUMPUR, March 29 — At first glance, it’s easy to dismiss Muska as just one of the many cafes that populate Mont Kiara.
I must admit I was somewhat sceptical walking towards the space on the ground level of Verve Shops, but my reservations were quickly put to bed by the arrival of the Mumbai Vada Pao Slider (RM20).
Taking inspiration from Mumbai’s most famous street food, also known as vada pav, this dish consists of a deep-fried potato ball sandwiched between a bread bun, served with a side of fried green chilli pepper and a chutney that tasted strongly of mint and cilantro.
The result is a decidedly carbohydrate-dense combination of light, fluffy potato and pillowy bread, punctuated by warm hits of spice and the refreshing, cool chutney.
The Indian influence is apparent on the rest of the menu, which belies both Muska’s appearance and surroundings.
While an appeal to tired tropes and — dare I say — perceived cultural markers seem to be the go-to for most contemporary restaurants and cafes trying to convince diners of their cultural authenticity, Muska forgoes all that in favour of a more industrial chic look, dotted with plenty of greenery.
Granted, not uncommon for a cafe, but when was the last time you saw Dal Makhani (RM30) at your neighbourhood cafe?
Escorted by a line-up of flaky mint parathas, the bowl of thick, buttery — makhani being the Punjabi word for butter — lentils is rich, creamy and carries a mellow nuttiness.
It was so, so difficult to resist stuffing our faces with this; each bite of warm paratha doused in gravy was simply divine.
Kadhai Paneer with Laccha (RM30) is another dish from the "sharing plates” section that involves flatbreads and dipping.
Blocks of firm paneer are tossed in a savoury tomato-based gravy with onions and bell peppers, reminiscent of a milder, creamier version of kadai chicken but with paneer.
The sauce is rich, slightly sweet with just a touch of heat, and practically begs for a comprehensive dip and scoop with a bit of the lachha paratha, which is super thin, crisp and toasty with smoky notes of charcoal. Easily my favourite dish of the meal.
The menu at Muska isn’t afraid to draw inspiration from all over India, and Keema Per Edu (RM35) is reflective of that.
A nod to Parsi cuisine, this dish sees lamb mince topped with eggs and served with a soft bread bun.
The flavour profile of the mince reminded me strongly of keema matar, a dish of spiced mince and peas that originates from the Mughal era — just without the peas.
The fries on the side are a more modern addition, accented by a sprinkle of garam masala. The soft and fluffy bun helps with mopping up every last bit, even if the eggs weren’t runny — perhaps my only criticism of an otherwise delightful dish.
I foresee myself coming back to sample the Pav Bhaji, the Kolkata Kathi Roll, or possibly the Chicken Sukha Tacos — the latter of which appears to be an attempt at interpreting the common, classic dishes of India in a playful medium.
Even so, it’s clear to see — and taste — that the food does most of the talking at Muska, and is by all accounts — a highly skilled orator.
Muska KL
Lot G-03, Verve Shops, Jalan Kiara 5, Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8am-11pm
Tel: 012-256 6560
Website: https://muskakl.com/
Instagram: @muskakl
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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