Dive into Mexican cuisine like tacos and ceviche at the Flavors of Mexico pop-up at Hartamas Shopping Centre's Bessz Cafe

KUALA LUMPUR, March 18 — I take tacos very seriously, especially homemade ones.

Feeling dissatisfied with tacos from a recent restaurant visit that disintegrated when I picked it up, I went searching for a better homemade version.

It felt like the food gods heard my plea. Next thing I knew, a friend posted on social media about tacos from this under-the-radar eatery. Turns out, it's the venue of a pop-up by Mexican chef Ivan Chavarria.

Labelled as "Street Food of Mexico Surf and Turf Edition", it's their second pop-up in the city. This one will run until April 30.

Chavarria, who is from Puebla, Mexico, had honed his craft in Spain's La Sucursal and Mexico's Ocean Maya Royale hotel. He moved to Bali where he worked at various places on the island like Motel Mexicola, Sky Garden and Casa Blanca.

During the pandemic, he co-founded a digital channel, known as Flavors of Mexico, where he shares his knowledge about Mexican food with others.

The eatery is sandwiched between Starbucks and Zus Coffee in Hartamas Shopping Centre

You may even spot Razif Hashim here too. The actor and television host owns My Mex Food Industries and has teamed up with Chavarria for these pop-ups.

The place has a very casual vibe. Larger groups dominate the inside of the restaurant while one can sit outside to enjoy the breeze.

Kick off the meal with their starters, a choice of corn chips with guacamole or Coctel de Camaron, a tangy cold tomato dip with prawns and avocado. There's also Nachos with cheese sauce, pico de Gallo, guacamole, sour cream and jalapeños. Curious about the Ceviche (RM24), I ordered this.

You're get two spicy dips like their chilli sauce or the Mexican dip with your snacks (left). Cool down with Horchata or Agua de Limon (right)

You get pieces of lime cured fish with a seafood broth. It's not too piquant, making it a pleasant way to start the meal. There's also avocado, tomatoes and onions in the broth. What's really good is the corn chips that were just the right crunch and had a fragrant flavour of corn. The chips are from My Mex Food Industries.

There are main dishes with your choice of protein ranging from lamb, beef ribs and chicken. However, all I wanted were tacos.

The Taco Baja (RM13) with tempura fish and pico de Gallo came highly recommended by my friend. I liked the corn tortillas used as you definitely taste the corn there. It's still firm enough holding up the ingredients well. It's hard to decide which I prefer but the Taco de Camaros (RM14) tasted a little better with its tempura prawn, chipotle mayonnaise and pineapple relish.

Tacos are the highlight here with the tempura fish (front) and tempura prawn

My favourite was the Birria Lamb Taco with its juicy, tender lamb cooked for 12 hours

The Birria Lamb Taco (RM16) was also a big favourite with its deeper flavours from the tender, juicy 12 hours slow cooked lamb, marinated with fresh herbs. It didn't need any other toppings but they added cured onion and guacamole to the taco.

Vegetarians can opt for Hongos Taco with blanched spinach, black beans, sautéed mushrooms and vegetarian sour cream. There's also a chicken version with the Taco de Pollo Al Pastor with red chillies, achiote and pineapple relish.

Here the tacos tend to be simpler and less dressed up compared to other places. What I notice though is they aren't big bites and the portion of toppings tends to vary. For instance, the prawn taco was quite skimpy while the lamb was a heftier bite.

Round up your Mexican meal with desserts like the Flan (RM15). It's a Mexican custard with a firmer texture yet still creamy for you to enjoy with the caramel sauce.

The Flan is a slightly firmer texture but it pairs well with the caramel

Churros de Cajeta is crunchier with a firmer texture which one pairs with the 'dulce de leche'

The Churros Con Cajeta (RM17) is different from the fluffier churros we usually get. It's crunchy on the outside with a firmer texture inside. Dip the churros with the creamy, sweet dulce de leche.

You will also find brunch dishes, available from 11.30am to 5.30pm. These include various Mexican rice dishes, topped with a choice of chicken adobo, birria lamb and a mix of corn, mushrooms, black beans and so forth.

There's also various sets for families and for two to three persons.

Flavors of Mexico Asia Pop Up, Bessz Cafe, Ground Floor, (in between Starbucks and Zus Coffee), Hartamas Shopping Centre, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 11.30am to 8.30pm. (Tuesday to Sunday). Closed on Monday.

Facebook:@flavorsofmexico.asia

Instagram: @flavorsofmexico.asia

*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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