KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 27 — Laksa takes many forms in various states. In Sarawak, a bowl of laksa is filled with thicker strands of blanched rice vermicelli and a fragrant brownish-reddish broth. It is topped with omelette strips, poached prawns, shredded chicken, blanched bean sprouts and fresh coriander sprigs. On the side, you will be served sambal with a halved calamansi lime. The Sarawakians prefer to consume the laksa for breakfast.
Unlike the tangy assam laksa or the spicier curry laksa, the Sarawak laksa is fragrant with spices with an underlying richness from the coconut milk. As it’s not so spicy, it’s perfect for those who are less tolerant to chillies.
The key to making it is the laksa paste — a blend of shallots, garlic, candlenuts, dried chillies, galangal, lemongrass and ground spices. These spices include a mix of coriander seeds, cumin, star anise, cardamom, clove and nutmeg.
The paste is sautéed with roasted peanuts and sesame seeds until it is fragrant. A chicken and prawn broth, and coconut milk are added and it is simmered for at least an hour over a slow fire to extract its taste.
Sarawak laksa also has the distinction of being included in popular television personality Anthony Bourdain’s top 10 wish list of eats from all over the world. Bourdain who hosts the television show Parts Unknown caused a stir last year when he visited Choon Hui Kopitiam in Kuching, Sarawak to film the Sarawak laksa. Labelled by him as the “breakfast of gods”, he first visited the same coffee shop in 2005 when he filmed his television show No Reservations.
Aunty Christina’s Sarawak Laksa
Restoran Nam Chun
2-4, Lorong Ara Kiri
Lucky Garden, Bangsar, KL
Open: 8am to 3pm. Closed on Wednesdays.
Hailing from a family in Sarawak that has been selling the laksa from her mother’s days, Aunty Christina relocated here to be with her children. In terms of sizing, the broth and thicker vermicelli strands tend to be rather small. She makes it up with the superb crunchy and sweet tasting prawns with their bright orange shells. You also have chicken strips, fresh coriander sprigs and blanched bean sprouts.
7th Mile Kitchen
RG 24, Kelana Sentral Condominium
Jalan SS6/8, Kelana Jaya, PJ
Open: 7am to 2.30pm. Closed on Mondays.
Previously at Taman Megah where they started out selling tomato fried kuey teow, this stall’s laksa is served with a thick fragrant broth that you will eagerly drink down to the last drop. It’s topped with the usual garnishes like omelette strips, chicken, coriander and bean sprouts. The prawns are small but fresh. You can also order their other popular items like the kolo mee and three layer tea.
SALTed
30-1, Jalan PJU 7/16A
Mutiara Damansara, PJ
Open: 10am to 5pm (Monday to Friday), 10am to 3pm (Saturday and Sunday)
A relative newcomer to the food scene that serves pork-free Sarawakian fare. Their shop is located near the surau at Mutiara Damansara, opposite Aitch Coffee Roasters. The laksa has three options: basic with cuttlefish, original with prawns and special with a combination of prawns and cuttlefish. The broth is tasty and the plus point is their fresh Ming prawns with their crystal-like shells. Here thicker vermicelli strands are used. You can also order their kolo mee or belacan beehoon with a side order of century eggs.
Restoran Dapur Sarawak
19, Jalan Sarikei
Off Jalan Pahang, KL
Open daily: 10am to 10.30pm
This restaurant is popular for its halal Sarawakian food. The laksa here is thick and flavourful with omelette strips and tiny prawns. They also serve kolo mee with a choice of chicken, prawns or beef toppings. Toss the noodles with a dark soy sauce to give it flavour. For an unusual twist to kolo mee, order the stir fried version. Other goodies include belacan beehoon, mee jawa, nasi Manok panggang that is served with their ayam bakar. They also have a branch at XG-23, Jalan Plumbum X7/X, Section 7, Shah Alam.
Restoran Gembira
39, Jalan SS24/8
Taman Megah, PJ
Open: 7.30am to 2pm. Closed on Mondays.
This stall is better known for its kolo mee and the owner’s unusual hats. Here the laksa is labelled as Kuching laksa. You can also use the springier egg noodles used for the kolo mee to get a different texture rather than the usual vermicelli strands. A bowl of noodles is served with omelette strips, slices of fish cake, bean sprouts and tiny but mediocre tasting prawns.
