LONDON, Sept 24 ― London Fashion Week opened in the midst of the UK's national period of mourning, with the cancellation and postponement of many shows. But most designers maintained their program, presenting spring-summer 2023 collections channelling festive and romantic themes, and with a certain nostalgia for the 2000s. This was accompanied by a host of tributes to the late Queen Elizabeth II.
What will you be wearing next summer? While temperatures are dropping in many global regions, the fashion industry ― always ahead of the curve ― is gradually unveiling the spring-summer 2023 trends at this season's Fashion Month. This will give us an idea of the pieces, materials, colours and cuts that will be coming to our wardrobes in a few months' time. After New York, which saw collections strongly inspired by the nineties, London paid tribute to the following decade, the infamous Y2K years.
Standout style: the micro mini-skirt
If New York and London agree on one thing, it's that the craze for the micro mini-skirt ― revived by the Miu Miu fashion house two seasons ago ― will still be going strong next summer. In the UK capital, a slew of designers showed skirts each shorter than the next, including Susan Fang, Stefan Cooke, Poster Girl and 16Arlington. No matter what material or cut you choose, the micro-skirt will be high on the agenda next summer, whether cut straight, pleated, plain, printed or frilled.
Fabric focus: A denim revolution
It never really went away, but denim will be one of the key fabrics in wardrobes next season, according to the new collections presented at London Fashion Week. However, the major fashion houses mostly showed it in printed versions, or denim pieces embellished with all kinds of details. The fabric was seen with graffiti-type paint, floral or romantic prints, in two or three colors, or even embellished with chains or rhinestones. This was seen on the catwalks of Stefan Cooke, Molly Goddard and Dilara Findikoglu, for example. Note that high-waist jeans have not completely disappeared, but that low-rise waistlines ― a relic of the 2000s ― are undoubtedly the stars of the season.
Hue highlight: Silver shines bright
The gold of New York Fashion Week was followed by silver in London. Many designers showed shimmering looks in this festive shade, which is quite unusual for the summer season. JW Anderson, Simone Rocha and 16Arlington all succumbed to silver, usually with a disco slant, and in various versions, from glittery to sequined and mirror-effect. However, on the whole, London's catwalks showed a very varied palette, often with bright, vivid colours, as seen at brands like Halpern and Molly Goddard, which stood out particularly on this theme.
Prime print: A flourish of flowers
Romanticism was the order of the day in London, with a profusion of flowers of all kinds. Seen in XXS or XXL versions, these floral blooms ― whether prairie-style or worthy of the finest English gardens ― generally covered long flowing or floaty dresses, but not only. Florals were everywhere, from tops to swimsuits to jewellery, even appearing as if sculpted in trompe l'oeil form on clothes. Paul & Joe was one of the labels offering an abundance of flowers, joined by Erdem ― where it's a brand specialty ― and Simone Rocha.
The finishing touch: Tributes to Queen Elizabeth II
The designers who maintained, or simply shifted around their shows didn't hesitate to pay tribute to the late Queen through moving messages, or nods to her legendary style. Paul & Joe covered the heads of its models with scarves, evoking those frequently worn by Elizabeth II, while Harris Reed gave his bride a bouquet of lily-of-the-valley blooms, the sovereign's favorite flowers. Meanwhile, JW Anderson dedicated the brand's final runway look to the Queen, with a garment bearing the message “Her Majesty The Queen 1926-2022 Thank You”. ― ETX Studio
