GEORGE TOWN, Sept 25 — Some are thick spicy concoctions made richer by the addition of coconut milk, some are lighter and yet still pack a spicy punch with a twist due to the addition of tamarind paste and some are a delightful combination of both styles, marrying two different recipes to perfection.
A pot of fish head curry can be vastly different from one restaurant to another, depending on the style it was prepared and the mixture of spices used but one thing is for sure, this is a favourite meal for many especially when paired with a plate of steaming fluffy white rice.
The fish head curry is believed to have originated from Kerala, India but with the mix of local cultures, it has morphed into many different versions using a broad range of spices, some with the pungent belacan and some with the tart flavours of the tamarind paste.
The Kerala style curry will have a mix of cumin, cloves, mustard seeds and poppy seeds to give the curry a multi-layer of aromas while the more localised styles include a healthy dose of belacan (or shrimp paste) to give the curry an extra oomph and in Chinese or Straits Chinese homes, the fish head curry is lighter with a sourish note from the use of tamarind paste. In some of these recipes, the curry is thickened with coconut milk, adding another layer of flavour to the curry.
Though the curries can be prepared differently, each pot of fish head curry must have the requisite fish head, some chunks of fish meat and okra (lady’s fingers). Depending on the style, some also have plenty of onions and are topped with some fresh mint leaves.
Fish head curry is most often enjoyed for lunch and dinner and best shared as it comes in a large pot with the whole fish head. Some restaurants have the option for customers to order fish curry instead of the fish head if they are not so keen on eating fish heads.
Fish head curry restaurants and stalls are aplenty all around Penang but here are five that we feel are worth visiting:
Wei Universal Curry Fish Head, Perak Lane
GPS: 5.399161, 100.320438
Time: 6.30pm-11pm
This is a roadside stall located right at the junction of Perak Lane and Jelutong Road where you sit out in the open. The stall is known for its rich fish head curry but you also have the option to add prawns and squids to the curry. They also sell belacan fried chicken wings as appetisers while you wait for your curry.
Kelawei Fish Head Curry, Astaka Gurney Drive
GPS: 5.434089, 100.315072
Time: 11.30am-3.30pm
This restaurant used to operate along Jones Road, just off the corner of Kelawei Road. It shifted to the hawker complex recently. Other than fish head curry, it also sells a range of ready cooked dishes from fried chicken to stir fried cabbage.
Ujong Batu Fishermen’s Floating Restaurant, Butterworth
GPS: 5.391001, 100.374904
Time: 10am-4pm
This is a restaurant opened by the Ujong Batu Fishermen’s Association and it not only specialises in fish head curry, it is also known for its crispy deep fried black pomfret. It also has a beautiful view of the fishermen’s jetty with fishing boats moored to it and a mangrove swamp.
Tian Lai Coffee Shop, Macalister Road
GPS: 5.416534, 100.323757
Time: 7pm-11pm
The fish head curry stall is located within the corner coffee shop at this row of three coffee shops. Their curry is one that is light with just the right amount of spices and a hint of coconut milk that is not too rich.
Chee Wah Fish Head Curry, Malay Street
GPS: 5.414243, 100.334881
Time: 11.30am-3pm
This particular restaurant, almost unnoticeable along a row of heritage shophouses in this quiet street, has been around for several decades. It is well known for its spicy fish head curry that has a kick to it and though it doesn’t have coconut milk in the curry, it is just as thick and flavourful.
