KUALA LUMPUR, April 22 — In the world of food, Sam Kan Cheong (Cantonese for "three shops") noodles are iconic. But what is its origin story?
Apparently these three shops in KL were famous for their flat pork ball noodles back in the 1950s, hence that was the name everyone associated the popular noodles with.
In terms of location, I remember stories told by my parents that it was located at the back lane of Kompleks Kota Raya. Every time we walked down that lane to get to Lebuh Pudu, they would point out those shops.
I'm not sure why they shut down. In later years, my family would go to Win Heng Seng in Imbi to get their pork ball noodles.
It was only much later in life that I found out there are many versions of the pork ball noodles. The descendants of the original owners cooked one version, which can be found at Taman Desa's Tuck Tuck Tei. Others cooked their own versions as their family members worked at the three shops.
Till today, I must admit I'm not able to verify the long forgotten taste of the original place. Like all dishes that are served over the years, one can see how the taste has evolved.
Most times, these change to suit people's preferences. It doesn't make business sense to stick to the original taste if it cannot sell.
In Jinjang, Restoran Sam Kan Chong is said to serve up a version of the pork ball noodles, passed down to them for three generations since 1954.
They also manufacture the pork balls and sausages on a large scale to supply to other stalls.
Once you see the stall's signage, you will realise you have come across it all over the Klang Valley as it has a large network of stalls in various coffee shops that also included eateries in shopping malls.
However, due to the lack of manpower, business has been scaled back.
I would say the taste of these noodles is what people associate Sam Kan Cheong with since it's available everywhere. The flavours tend to veer towards the slightly sweeter side though.
With these noodles, there's a lot going on in the bowl. My preference is always the dry version, since I get to taste the sauce coating the noodles.
Your choice of noodles is tossed in a dark soy sauce with lard oil. Here, their version tends to have a sweeter edge. The minced pork — a generous portion — is also in bigger, fluffier bits.
In general, as they produce their own pork balls and pork sausages, these are incredibly fresh.
The pork sausage, which is one of my favourite elements in Sam Kan Cheong noodles, has a juicy texture. Again, there's an underlying sweet taste. It's just a hint that makes the sausage appetising.
Over at Tuck Tuck Tei, the sausage may look dry but once you nibble on a piece, the wine and spices flavours come forth. The meat isn't mushed up together and crumbles in the mouth once you bite it.
The flat pork balls have a soft texture, when bitten into. Here, the broth has a milkier look, from boiling large pork bones for 24 hours. It's more pork-centric.
There's a vast difference from say, the one served at Tuck Tuck Tei where the broth is lighter in taste, with the use of pork meat and soybeans. You also get a distinct pepper flavour too.
The Jinjang place also serves one large pork bone with the broth and curry mee.
For those seeking extra protein, try the poached chicken from a stall outside the restaurant, which is pretty decent.
My order of kampung chicken (half portion for RM33) was a satisfying meal minus the carbohydrates. As it's free range, the meat is slightly firmer.
Seating is rather haphazard here. Inside the shop, there are a few big tables and on the walkway, further down the shop, you will find smaller tables and chairs for two to four people lined up.
Restoran Sam Kan Chong, No. 17, Jalan Jinjang Aman 16, Jinjang Utara, Kuala Lumpur. Open:7am to 8pm. Tel:016-8143262. Facebook: @SamKanChongJinJangUtara
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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