KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 4 — Around the Chow Kit neighbourhood, you will see signboards with “Khan” everywhere... so much so, you feel you have stepped into the “World of Khan”.

Turns out it’s the empire of Khan Jee Restaurant with multiple restaurants at every corner, differentiated by numbers, including a grocery store selling a multitude of ingredients to convert you into a Khan devotee at home.

Khan Jee Restaurant 1 was our target one night; we followed the trail of smoke from the kebab grill and found the place sandwiched between old-timer House of Pakeeza and RHB Bank.

Chapli Kabab is pan fried in oil using this large pan (left). Each 'kebab' is topped with chillies and ground coriander (right).
Chapli Kabab is pan fried in oil using this large pan (left). Each 'kebab' is topped with chillies and ground coriander (right).

The place feels different depending on what time you visit. When the sun is up, its diners come from nearby offices seeking mid-day sustenance like rice or bread with a protein.

As darkness falls, plastic tables spring up along the sidewalk for those who prefer the night air, while others head inside for the air-conditioned grandeur of solid marble tables and even two chandeliers.

One may scoff at these luxurious touches but the food here isn’t pretentious at all. It’s just good old Pakistani fare with a meat-centric slant as seen by the rows of kebabs in the front.

Using a 'karahi', the Mutton Karahi is essentially a tomato based curry with spices, ginger and tender mutton.
Using a 'karahi', the Mutton Karahi is essentially a tomato based curry with spices, ginger and tender mutton.

The skewers off the charcoal grill are juicy and smoky.

Using minced meat, the Chicken Kebab (RM22) uses milder spices while the Beef Boti (RM18) is essentially easily pulled apart pieces of meat with a stronger, smokier aroma.

The ultimate is definitely the Chapli Kabab (RM8), shaped like a meat patty and shallow fried in hot oil.

Palak Paneer here is different as it's mixed with cream (left). Daal Makhni has buttery beans laced with cream (right).
Palak Paneer here is different as it's mixed with cream (left). Daal Makhni has buttery beans laced with cream (right).

This kebab is cooked in a large iron pan right in front of the restaurant, where patties are hand moulded from a mountain of minced meat mixed with spices and tomatoes kept in a glass cabinet next to the hot pan.

The patties are flattened, slid into the hot oil to pan fry until it’s crisp with an almost blackened look and topped with charred chillies, ground coriander and a side salad of cabbage and onions.

It’s unbelievably juicy and a squeeze of the lime helps cut through the richness.

Black Seeds Naan is golden brown flatbread with the unmistakable aroma of sesame seeds.
Black Seeds Naan is golden brown flatbread with the unmistakable aroma of sesame seeds.

Commonly tied to Pakistani fare, Mutton Karahi (RM45) sports a rich tomato base brimming with spices and ginger, peppered with smaller pieces of mutton with their bones.

Its namesake is a karahi or an iron pot allowing it to cook down to become a rich, slightly sweet curry.

Side dishes are cooked ahead and found behind the counter, so grab the Palak Paneer (RM8) where green spinach is blended and layered with a dollop of creaminess, making it extremely accessible to all.

Also in the same vein, one can experience a buttery Daal Makhni (RM16) with slow cooked black lentils with a mild flavour.

Mutton Pulao is simple but satisfying with tender meat and fluffy rice.
Mutton Pulao is simple but satisfying with tender meat and fluffy rice.

Once your choices are selected, it’s time to confuse yourself with the choices of flatbread—naan, chapati, paratha, roti.

Black Seeds Naan (RM4) isn’t your typical puffy naan as this golden brown toasted creature is studded with black sesame seeds that tickles the nose with its slight fragrance.

For a slightly puffy naan, there’s variations stuffed with cheese, garlic and even Milo.

Carrot Halwa (left) is fluffy and not too sweet. Rasmalai is rare here but sought after for its creamy rich milk perfumed with saffron (right).
Carrot Halwa (left) is fluffy and not too sweet. Rasmalai is rare here but sought after for its creamy rich milk perfumed with saffron (right).

Wade through a dizzying array of biryani and pulao, to order the Mutton Pulao (RM20) that comes with a generous pile of fluffy grains with slow cooked mutton.

Each grain may look unadorned but you taste the rich mutton flavour as you start to eat the dish.

Finish your meal here with the superb spread of desserts on the top of the glass counter.

There’s even more in the chilled section, sponge cream cakes and a bowl of ras gulai, the rarely seen sweet.

Spot the magnificent chandelier at Khan Jee Restaurant (left). 'Kebab' station front the restaurant (right).
Spot the magnificent chandelier at Khan Jee Restaurant (left). 'Kebab' station front the restaurant (right).

Top pick is their Carrot Halwa (RM3) with its fluffy carrot mixed with ghee and sugar that meets that greatest of Asian dessert accolades: “not too sweet”.

For those in the know, decadent Rasmalai (RM10 for two pieces) is difficult to find as not everyone takes to it.

You find a bowl of it tucked inside the chiller, as fresh paneer shaped into discs is placed soaking up the saffron scented milk, so slowly relish its floral fragrance with a cup of hot Pakistan tea.

Khan Jee Restaurant

12-G, Jalan Sultan Azlan Shah

Kuala Lumpur.

Open daily: 7am to 2am

Tel: 017-2617861

*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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