GEORGE TOWN, July 6 – Tucked away behind the two centuries-old Goddess of Mercy Temple in the inner city of George Town is a boutique hotel that is well... more than a hotel.

With its long centre courtyard reminiscent of a scene from Ang Lee’s Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon to the amazing lobby filled with antique Peranakan furniture and rooms with Chinoserie cabinets and antique pieces, Seven Terraces comes off more like a large stately Straits Chinese family home than a cold, unfeeling hotel for guests.

The Baba Nyonya, or the Peranakan, are Straits Chinese well known for their rich culture and tradition which is a marriage of Chinese and local Malay customs. Most importantly, they are part of the colourful tapestry that makes up Penang’s culture and traditions.

Award-winning hoteliers Karl Steinberg and Christopher Ong teamed up to breathe life into a row of seven 19th century Anglo Chinese terrace houses by creating Seven Terraces that consists of only 16 suites.

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The hotel’s Kebaya Restaurant features lots of exquisite Peranakan furniture and antiques.
The hotel’s Kebaya Restaurant features lots of exquisite Peranakan furniture and antiques.

One would never have guessed that a mere five years ago, these terraced buildings were abandoned with some of them almost hollowed out due to fire and neglect.

According to Ong, who acquired the pre-war shophouses in 2009, the whole concept is to recreate the feeling of living in a traditional Straits Chinese family home with loads of wide open spaces for ventilation.

Award-winning hotelier Christopher Ong wants to restore heritage buildings to prevent the rich heritage of Penang from being lost forever.
Award-winning hotelier Christopher Ong wants to restore heritage buildings to prevent the rich heritage of Penang from being lost forever.

Keeping the envelope of the buildings intact, the walls between the terraces were removed to create the spacious courtyard on the ground level but the suites remain connected through wooden walkways reminiscent of old grand Anglo Chinese homes.

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The suites, though complete with modern amenities like air-conds and televisions, are a throwback to days gone by; an impression created by the gilded Peranakan furniture and handcrafted furnishings using antique fittings and carvings.

“We want to be generous in public spaces and we want to create large rooms to provide comfortable stays for our clientele,” Ong said, pointing out that each suite is between the size of 800 sq ft to 1,200 sq ft.

The wide open spaces and unique heritage ambience of the hotel has not only won it many rave reviews from customers but also placed it on Condé Nast Traveller’s hot list of 2013; the only Malaysian hotel to make it into the prestigious international list.

The international travel magazine described it as “a wonderfully peaceful little bolthole with a whiff of the colonial gent about it.”

There is not a single corner within the hotel that is not tastefully decorated with a local antique piece or furniture that takes one back to the days of indulgent decadence.

Each suite in Seven Terraces has more than RM100,000 worth of antiques.
Each suite in Seven Terraces has more than RM100,000 worth of antiques.

The reception area is more like a living room where opium beds dominate the space while local Peranakan antique pieces from porcelain kamchengs (containers used by the Nyonyas to serve tong yuen at weddings) to teapots and tiffins and even a bridal head-dress are prominently exhibited.

Yet, it does not feel like you have stepped into a museum. No, this is a home. A beautiful home and you are a welcomed guest.

“I sourced all these antiques and almost all of the materials for this hotel locally as I wanted to recreate an old Penang feel as much as possible by having only items from here,” Ong said.
However, many of the Peranakan antiques such as the kamchengs, figurines and other porcelain ware are part of Ong’s own extensive antique collection.

One can almost imagine a Baba lounging on the day bed with his opium pipe in this section at the lobby of Seven Terraces.
One can almost imagine a Baba lounging on the day bed with his opium pipe in this section at the lobby of Seven Terraces.

“I started collecting antiques as a teenager so these pieces are from some of my personal collection,” added Ong, who grew up in Penang.
Indeed, each suite is furnished in antiques worth more than RM100,000! “This is a good investment as each suite manages to project a feel and atmosphere that is far different from any other hotel,” said Ong.

The row of Argus Suites facing the narrow Argus Lane each has its own little deck where guests will get a charming view of the Catheral of the Assumption, a historical Georgian church.

The entrance to Seven Terraces is actually located on Argus Lane, a narrow little back lane.
The entrance to Seven Terraces is actually located on Argus Lane, a narrow little back lane.

The other row of suites, the Stewart Suites, faces Stewart Lane which is the frontage of a row of shophouses even though, interestingly enough, the hotel’s reception and lobby is located along Argus Lane, which is a narrow back lane.

Complementing the magnificent suites is the hotel’s Kebaya Restaurant, and the Baba Bar and Lounge where patrons are entertained by “live” music courtesy of a pianist. Yes, it is all very Gatsby but the best thing is there is no dress code for hotel guests.

Comfort comes first and this adds to that “home” feeling when one stays at the hotel.The Kebaya Restaurant offers up Nyonya food with a delicious twist; the young chefs use French cooking techniques and a fusion of Thai and Straits Chinese flavours.

Open only for dinner, the restaurant is always full due to its refreshingly different interpretation of Nyonya food so reservations are a must to avoid disappointment.

Seven Terraces is one of Ong’s many successfully restored heritage buildings turned into sustainable and low impact tourism products.

One of the opium beds at the hotel lobby has a set of opium paraphernalia on it.
One of the opium beds at the hotel lobby has a set of opium paraphernalia on it.

“My main focus in my projects here in George Town is to aim for low impact tourism but high value added for the state’s economy,” Ong said.

Seven Terraces is the first joint venture project in Malaysia with his business partner Steinberg but on his own, Ong has already restored and established three other boutique hotels, Clove Hall (which he later sold), Muntri Mews and Noordin Mews.

This will not be the last of the talented hotelier’s projects in George Town though as he is already restoring more pre-war buildings within the heritage zone but is yet unsure if he will turn the restored buildings into boutique hotels or use them for other purposes.

“What I want to do is to restore these beautiful buildings that have been abandoned and are in bad condition so that these remnants of our rich heritage would not be lost forever,” he said.

Address: Seven Terraces, Stewart Lane, 10200 George Town, Penang
Tel: +604-264 2333
Fax: +604-264 5222
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.seventerraces.com

This story was first published in the print edition of The Malay Mail, July 5 2013.