KUALA LUMPUR, March 30 — Wantan mee is the kind of food you can eat on repeat. 

Believe me, it’s my staple diet that feeds me from morning to afternoon. 

But what happens when your taste shifts for the char siu, a quintessential topping for those springy egg noodles?

I was once enamoured with char siu that had a burnished crust, a soft fatty layer and the desired “melt in the mouth” texture but things are different now. 

That overly sticky almost black crust sticks to your teeth and if they grill the strips of meat in smaller pieces, the end pieces can be super thick and inedible.   

I’ve been searching for a char siu with a well-rounded flavour, a thinner crust and a texture that isn’t overly sticky. 

I want a bite where the fat and meat layers seamlessly blend without feeling dry or too fatty to the point it makes me cringe. 

With this in mind, I visited Restoran Hoong Kee and their char siu was beautiful and exactly what I was looking for. 

For RM10, you get a plate of egg noodles tossed with just the right amount of sauce — not so much that it pools on your plate — topped with char siu with layers of fat and meat. 

The noodles are neither too thin nor overly springy but they have a nice bite and are best eaten with sharp pickled green chillies.

Even their choice of greens is unusual, opting for the softer yau mak rather than the usual choy sum.

You may be surprised that there are no wantans served with your wantan mee. 

It turns out this place offers you a choice of more char siu versus wantans.

Believe me, you’ll want to opt for extra char siu rather than those wantans, which turn out to be decent with a minced pork filling. 

But if you must have those silky skin bites, order a bowl of five wantans for RM5 on the side. 

Roast pork (RM15) comes with thin, crispy crackling and layers of tender meat and fat. 

Because the cut of meat offered can differ daily, this version was especially fatty the day I visited.  

I noticed that most diners ordered curry mee (RM10), which was running low by 11am. 

Their version uses more curry powder, creating a stronger, somewhat one-dimensional taste, but the sambal served on the side saves its distinct dried prawn aroma. 

Enjoy it with the egg noodles as the bowl is also filled with char siu, wantans and beancurd puffs. 

There’s also an option for braised chicken feet as a topping for the wantan mee. 

With the market right next door, many stop here for their morning sustenance after shopping for essentials.

Restoran Hoong Kee

82, Jalan Bunga Tanjung 8,

Taman Muda, 

Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.

Tel:016-4118916

Open: 6.30am to 10pm. Closed on Wednesday.

*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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