KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 27 — There is no such thing as too many bowls of noodles. (If you’re a lover of noodles, that is, and I am.)

Located in a row of shophouses in Taman Taynton View, Cheras, Ang Noodle House offers precisely that opportunity to feast on soupy strands of sublimeness. 

From their specialty, the gravy-forward Lum Mee, to their rendition of Ipoh-style Prawn Mee, there is a bowl to satisfy every taste bud.

The shop is clean, brightly lit and fuss free. There is a busy breakfast crowd but we are seated promptly by the friendly owner, who brings over the menu and goes over the dishes, making helpful suggestions.

We both start with their Signature Cham. The owner insists it is extra kaw and strong, whether hot or iced, and the promise is fulfilled at first sip. 

It is dense, almost velvet-thick, with the bitterness of robust beans sitting squarely at the front before easing into something gentler: sweetness threaded through condensed milk, a faint whisper of caramel clinging to the tongue.

Then comes the Signature Lum Mee — spoiler alert; many of the dishes we ordered come attached with the “Signature” stamp of approval — which looks plain enough, its glossy sauce offering no hint of the patient labour behind it. 

But taste reveals the truth: a broth simmered over 24 hours, the owner informs us, built from chicken bones and prawn shells. 

The noodles are generously layered with prawns, slivers of pork, and shredded chicken. Vegetables — cabbage, bean sprouts — provide freshness and a much-needed crunch.

A spoonful of the house chilli — seeds and all — brightens the dish further, adding a heat that nudges the tongue awake.

This is a bowl meant to be eaten slowly, allowed time to reveal its layers of flavours, though one suspects most diners will not have the patience.

By comparison, the Ipoh Prawn Mee feels less dramatic, which is far from a complaint. Here the pale broth is delicate yet aromatic. Our choice of mee and beehoon mingle in the bowl, offering alternating textures with each bite. 

The toppings — prawns, chicken, bean sprouts, a halved boiled egg — are customary though the inclusion of kangkung introduces a lovely bite and vegetal freshness, completing the dish.

A good variety of yong tau foo is available; all prepared in-house. The Signature Chun Juan delivers minced pork uplifted by crisp water chestnut — a subtle but welcome textural contrast.

Handmade pork meatballs — beaten by hand rather than machine, the owner stresses — possess a springiness that will delight those used to denser versions. 

Other yong tau foo options include the requisite stuffed vegetables — eggplant, okra, bitter gourd, and chilli — as well as crisp tofu skin and dumplings.

Taken together, these dishes do more than fill; they reassure. They speak of repetition, of practice, of old fashioned skills honed quietly over time. 

As I pay our bill, the owner tells me that her shop has been open for only four months and hopes to see us return. I assure her that we will, not only for the redoubtable noodles and yong tau foo, but for the heartwarming hospitality.

Ang Noodle House洪淋面馆

3 Jalan Bee Eng 1, 

Taman Taynton View, 

Cheras, KL.

Open Tues-Sun 7:30am-3:30pm; Mon closed

Phone: 019-210 1866

*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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