KUALA LUMPUR , Feb 1 — They say necessity is the mother of invention. In the case of home-grown label Shuren Projects, she is a lady with a sharp sartorial sense, a keen eye for details and a taste for the finest tailoring. Focusing on men’s shirts, it was born out of five friends’ frustration in finding the kind of clothes they want in their wardrobe.
“Either the styles or the cutting were not what we wanted, or the fit wasn’t right as Western brands do not make clothes in Asian sizes,” explained Kwan Pei Choong (PC), who co-founded the brand along with Lim Theng Wei, Daniel Chow, Joe Koh and Shuren Ho. All of them are in their 20s and none have a background in fashion design; Theng Wei and Joe studied architecture while the others are business graduates. What they have is a common interest in tasteful clothes made well.
Before launching their label, the quintet met suppliers and manufacturers, and learned the basics of shirt production — everything from choosing fabrics to pattern cutting. One manufacturer even let them spend time at their factory floor to observe the process. They also purchased and studied various shirts, went to multiple stores to check out what’s in the market, and surfed the Net for references.
“We decided on a tailoring house in Kuala Lumpur and concentrated on building a relationship with them,” said PC. “Friends advised that our costs would be lower if we were to get our shirts manufactured elsewhere, but to us, it’s important that we are able to oversee the production closely.”
After countless trials and errors, their first sample was ready in 2009 but Shuren as a brand did not debut until three years later. The five used the time to work on their branding and construct their website, including an e-commerce site. With no specific marketing plans in mind, they started by making their online presence felt, spreading the word through their personal networks. “Most brands mark up their prices to cover their marketing costs. We decided to channel that money into creating better products instead,” PC revealed.
Their designs are guided by a simple rule: they make clothes that they like to wear, and that are suitable for everyday occasions. Subtlety is another signature of Shuren’s, seen in details like the fabric tag that bears their brand name in Chinese characters and sewn to the side of the shirt pockets. Two letters, SR that stands for Shuren, are also embroidered on the bottom of the shirts and this feature can be customised to the customer’s initials.
That their label share a name with one of the founders — albeit only phonetically, as in Chinese, the characters are completely different — was a happy coincidence and to them, an assuring sign. Shuren Projects was inspired by and is an abbreviation of the Chinese proverb ‘Shi nian shu mu, bai nian shu ren’ which means that it takes a decade for a seedling to grow into a tree that can stand on its own whereas it takes, figuratively speaking, a century for a man to find his footing. Clothes make the man and through their offerings, Shuren Projects hopes to nurture their customers not only on their outward appearance but also by sharing their understanding of what makes a good shirt. More importantly, how to pick the right shirt that suits the occasion and flatters one’s natural attributes.
Pick up a Shuren shirt and the quality is apparent right away in details like the texture and feel of the materials, and mother-of-pearl buttons. Take a close look at the stitching; generally, the higher the stitch counts, the better the quality. Shuren’s shirts usually clock in at 18-21 stitches per inch (regular shirts typically have a maximum of 14 stitches per inch) so they don’t wear out easily or pucker with frequent wash.
When it comes to fabric choice, their choices are even more pragmatic — cloths that are comfortable on the skin and friendly to our tropical climate. Linen is favoured for its breathability and because it dries off sweat quickly. Poplin and oxford are preferred for formal shirts, and they also use Japanese cotton for some designs.
While their collection is available as ready-to-wear items that you can buy from their e-shop and off the shelves at two retail points (Snackfood in Bangsar, and The Fourheads in Gombak), Shuren’s specialty is in bespoke shirts tailored for a perfect fit and that help the wearer project the right image.
Here’s where it gets technical, and is part of the nurturing process that Shuren likes to take their customers through. Most men would simply shop by colour or cut, but did you know that the collar is one of the most important factors to consider? Wearing the right collar style will flatter and balance up your facial features: Those with slim faces should go for a wider collar while conversely, if your face is broad, pick a narrower variant.
The semi spread collar is one of the most common as it suits most people, the tips fitted with small plastic strips between the fabric layers to enable the collar to stand. There’s the button-down, made popular by American clothier Brooks Brothers, which are so-named as the tips are buttoned to the shirt. The most formal shirts have stiff collars made up of three layers, including lining, for a more proper look.
Fabric selection is next, with different materials sending out varying messages about its wearer. Poplin and oxford are both ideal for business wear, and for the latter, Shuren uses one that’s silkier and softer than regular oxford.
Linen gives off a casual vibe so it’s great for daily wear. It also addresses a popular misconception. “Typically, when people see you wearing a shirt, they assume you’re dressed for an occasion,” said Theng Wei. “But if you pick the right shirt — like linen for a casual outing — you won’t look out of place.”
Shuren has since launched two more collections, with their latest being for Spring/Summer 2014 that was showcased at last year’s KL Fashion Week. Named “7 Theses On Stripes”, the line comprises seven striped shirts and if you think all stripes are the same, PC offered this tip on the linear print: The slimmer or closer the lines are, the more serious an image the shirt exudes.
Outside of the collection, Shuren’s newest offering is the Japanese-style Noragi shirt in linen, an outerwear piece that is typically worn over a T-shirt and can be adapted to individual styles. It can also be customised for ladies, using a type of linen that has a shiny surface.
The Noragi’s versatility and restraint reflects Shuren’s aesthetics, which are primarily minimalist and employs a classic colour palette of mostly whites and blues with the occasional pink, tartan and corduroy. An exception is their Alo’halo Shirt in a cheerful yellow fabric bearing colourful prints of surfboards, ukuleles and palm trees. Designed after the quintessential Hawaiian shirt — but with additional buttons at the top for a more updated look — and using a material sourced from the paradisiacal islands, it is an authentic offering. What prompted such a departure from their norm? “Very simply, it was because I needed a shirt that I could wear while on vacation in Perhentian Island!” Theng Wei divulged, staying true to their motto of only making clothes that they themselves want to wear.
Every design in their range can be customised, at no additional charge. They will first arrange to meet for a consultation before preparing a sketch of the design and fabric samples for the client to consider. Sometimes more meet-ups may be necessary to fine-tune details before the design goes into production. All in all, it takes about six weeks from the initial contact to having a finely tailored shirt delivered to the satisfied customer.
Shuren, clearly, is more than just a fashion label; the word Projects in their moniker tells of their approach. “We are a collective of five persons and we don’t see this as simply a business, but as a project that we collaborate on. We may be focused on menswear now but who knows, in the future, we may look at other things too,” PC revealed. With Daniel currently doing a Master’s degree in Literature in the UK, there are plans for Shuren to produce their own publication.
For the time being, Shuren wants to keep on perfecting their tailored shirts. “There’s still a lot to explore in shirt making,” said PC, relating how the older generations would always go to a tailor to get their shirts done whereas these days, everyone buys off the rack even if the designs may not provide a good fit.
Essentially what Shuren is doing is going back to that old-school tailoring practice. For customers, it means a refreshing experience from the usual mall-based shopping. “When you see something from our collection that you like, it can be perfected for you.”
Shop Shuren Projects at www.shurenprojects.com or follow them on Facebook/Instagram (@shurenprojects) for updates; you can also buy their collection at The Fourheads (19 Jalan SG3/8 Taman Seri Gombak, Batu Caves Tel +6016 331 3791) and Snackfood (1st Floor, 17 Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar Baru Tel +6012 695 9364)
Vivian Chong is a freelance writer-editor, and founder of travel & lifestyle website http://thisbunnyhops.com
