SINGAPORE, May 15 — Its name clearly celebrates a keen interest in craft beer, and that is exactly what Little Island Brewing Company (LIBC), tucked away in a quiet corner of Changi Village, does particularly well.
Swing by after a hard day’s cycle around Pulau Ubin and order one of six beers it brews in-house, supervised by resident brewmaster Steve Spinney. The Dry Irish Stout stands out for its creamy fullness, while the Golden Ale is a popular choice for its sparkling hue and light flavour. If it helps to know, the former received a gold award at the Asian Beer Medal 2016.
But tempting as it might be to fill up on beer, you will want to leave room for the food. Managing director and owner Francis Khoo describes himself as a “hippy” gastronome who keeps a close eye on the kitchen, working with head chef Niko Soh (formerly from Paulaner Brauhaus) to create unpretentious cafe grub that is surprisingly good.
For something that pairs well with the booze, try the fish and chips (S$20/RM58.80), which uses local sea bass. Encased in a thin and crisp, golden batter, the fish has an evident freshness.
Just as good are the meat dishes. The Wagyu beef brisket (S$16), for example, is smoked for 15 hours and is tender to a tee. It boasts complex layers of flavour, thanks to a marinade that includes gula melaka, sea salt, smoked jarrah and lychee wood powder.
Another winner is the pork belly with a crispy cumin rub (S$13), a new take on the ubiquitous roast pork. On the outside, the slices boast that lovely crackly skin and a uniformly pink colour. Soh brines the meat in a secret sauce, before patiently roasting it for up to six hours. Soh also massages in a sauce inspired by the flavours of Vietnam, so there are hints of lime leaf, cumin and chilli.
If burgers are your default pairing with beer, it’s hard to fault the juicy stack of a Wagyu beef short rib patty, aged cheddar and smoked ham (S$25).
And if regular fries or mash is, well, too regular for a craft beer, the roasted chilli pumpkin (S$10) is a noteworthy side order. First steamed, then roasted with garlic, the squash is squishy-soft and served with slices of crunchy water chestnut and a chilli yoghurt dressing littered with rocket leaves. That said, you might want to ask the folks behind the bar about the perfect pairing with such bold flavours.
Desserts are sadly limited to a sticky date pudding (S$12) and a plus-size Irish stout brownie (S$12). The former can afford to be a denser cake, while the latter just felt like chocolate overload, with almost no hints of the beer.
Our suggestion is to save the calories for another pint (or two). — TODAY
Little Island Brewing Company
Where: Block 6 Changi Village Road, #01-01/02
Telephone: 6543 9100
Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday, noon to 11pm, Friday and Saturday, noon to midnight
