KUALA LUMPUR, Apr 13 — Who needs to eat yet another avocado toast when your tastebuds can travel to the East Coast via your breakfast spread?
Join the queue at this unassuming eatery on the fringe of Bukit Jalil and Seri Kembangan, where Terengganu food takes center stage.
Even though Terengganu and Kelantanese food are both from the East Coast, diners in the Klang Valley tend to prefer Kelantanese food for its bolder flavours and heavier use of sugar.
Start your morning with a plate of nasi dagang with white grains rather than the reddish-brown flecked rice favoured by the Kelantanese.
The colour may not grab your attention but the texture of the jasmine and glutinous rice combination is tender.
It’s painstakingly steamed and combined with coconut milk several times until the separate grains glisten and it’s plump with the santan.
Nasi Dagang Ikan (RM9) is the traditional pairing where a chunk of ikan tongkol hitam is drenched in a gulai made with a spice paste combining fermented shrimp paste, chilies, garlic, ginger and galangal.
It’s hard to say which one I prefer but the Nasi Dagang Daging (RM9) — an even richer, aromatic gulai with chunks of tender beef — won me over.
Both gulai dishes aren’t heavy with chiles, allowing you to enjoy the meal without a burning sensation on your tongue.
Laksam (RM6) is prepared differently here.
At first glance, it doesn’t look different. You have those rolls of silky soft steamed noodles in a thick coconut milk gravy. There’s an ulam and a dollop of bright red sambal.
Wait, what’s that brown square on top? It turns out to be a piece of fermented shrimp paste or belacan, which gives an instant boost of umami to the whole bowl.
What’s unusual about this gravy is that it isn’t made with pounded fish, which leaves you with a cleaner aftertaste.
As you combine all of the ingredients, the belacan melds with the thick coconut gravy, creating an appetising taste with just a hint of spiciness.
On every table, there’s a plate of Keropok Lekor GTR (RM9.50), where the chewy fish cracker is dipped in the tangy-spicy sauce. Leftovers are even packed home to slowly nibble on later.
Don’t ignore their most unassuming item: the Pulut Gaul Nyior (RM3), which is soft glutinous rice shaped into balls and dressed with the fluffiest grated coconut.
Each portion is paired with salted fish and chunks of ikan tongkol, giving the soft tender glutinous rice a tinge of saltiness that combines well with the sweetness from the feather soft grated coconut.
The spread on the table will tempt you to return for their sticky nasi kunyit, nasi minyak and even nasi lemak.
There are more temptations nearby in the form of kuih cara and one of the best renditions of kuih ketayap.
This version of kuih ketayap features a soft pandan flavoured green crepe wrapped around fragrant grated coconut soaked in gula Melaka.
Triangular parcels of grated coconut and fish known as satar plus pulut lepe wrapped in banana leaf can also be bought for a takeaway.
Kafe Masakan Terenganu Asli
No. 2-G, Jalan LP7/5B,
Lestari Perdana,
Taman Putra Permai, Seri Kembangan.
Tel:019-3886645/018-3886847
Open: 7am to 4pm (Tuesday to Saturday), 7am to 1pm (Sunday). Closed on Mondays.
Facebook: @nasidagangasli
Instagram: @masakanasli_terengganu
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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