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Pasir Mas octogenarian keeps four-generation ‘Kiam Koay’ tradition alive for Chinese New Year
Traditional cake maker Wee Ah Liong slices a ‘Kiam Koay’, known as ‘Kia Koi’ in the Kelantan dialect, to weigh before selling to customers at Kampung Pasir Parit, Chekok recently. — Bernama pic

PASIR MAS, Feb 17 — As Chinese New Year draws near, the quiet village of Kampung Pasir Parit, Chekok here, comes alive with the steady rhythm of tradition inside the home of Wee Ah Liong.

At 80, Wee is still very much at the heart of the festive rush, tirelessly preparing Kiam Koay, or Kia Koi in the Kelantan dialect — a traditional cake passed down through four generations.

While many in the Chinese community, especially the younger generation, are unfamiliar with the delicacy today, orders continue to pour in each year.

Each Kia Koi weighs a hefty 60 kilogrammes (kg) and takes nine hours to prepare. 

Wee inherited the craft from his late father, Wee Sock Kui, more than four decades ago and has continued the painstaking process ever since.

Traditional cake maker Wee Ah Liong, 80, (second from right) with his wife Ko Mek Gan, 76, (second from left), assisted by family members, lifts a cooked ‘Kiam Koay’, known as ‘Kia Koi’ in the Kelantan dialect, during a visit to Kampung Pasir Parit, Chekok recently. — Bernama pic

“It is usually prepared twice a year — during Chinese New Year and again for the mid-year (autumn) celebration in September or October, which is the second biggest festival,” he said when met at his home recently.

He opens orders a month before the celebration, but demand often exceeds what he can manage.

“I can only prepare about six Kia Koi for each festive season,” said the father of six, who limits production to safeguard quality.

The process is long and requires precision. 

Wee uses just two steamers fitted with specially made covers.

Traditional cake maker Wee Ah Liong, 80, (right) with his wife Ko Mek Gan, 76, (left), displays a ‘Kiam Koay’, known as’Kia Koi’ in the Kelantan dialect, during a visit to Kampung Pasir Parit, Chekok recently. — Bernama pic

From start to finish, each cake takes about nine hours to preserve its traditional taste, texture and aroma.

To produce one 60kg Kia Koi, 10kg of rice soaked in lime water and salt is first ground before being partially cooked in a large wok. 

The mixture is then transferred into a special container and steamed over a wood fire for nine hours, a method that helps retain its distinctive fragrance.

“After steaming, the cake is left to cool at room temperature for two days before being removed and cut according to customers’ requests. It is sold at RM12 per kg,” said Wee, who is assisted throughout by his 76-year-old wife, Ko Mek Gan.

Beyond being eaten as a sweet treat, Kia Koi also pairs well with savoury dishes such as bihun soup and kuetiau ladna.

A ‘Kiam Koay’, known as ‘Kia Koi’ in the Kelantan dialect, produced by Wee Ah Liong, as seen in Kampung Pasir Parit, Chekok recently. — Bernama pic

Cut into bite-sized pieces, it can be dipped in palm sugar syrup or grated coconut, eaten with soup or even fried.

Its versatility, Wee said, sets it apart from other traditional foods.

Despite his age, Wee’s hope remains firmly fixed on the future.

“I hope the younger generation will continue to appreciate and inherit the making of Kia Koi so that this traditional cake will not disappear with time and can be enjoyed by future generations,” he said. — Bernama 

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