KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 24 — “Do you want a knuckle sandwich?”

Now that’s not a question you’d typically wish to be presented with. For those unfamiliar with the term, it’s basically street slang for a punch in the face with a clenched fist (hence “knuckle sandwich”).

Unless the knuckle sandwich in question is a pork knuckle sandwich.

I’ve had braised pork trotter noodles in Cheras and Sitiawan-style Fook Chow red wine braised pork knuckle (hongjiu lu zhushou). From Thai braised pork knuckle (kha mu) in Melaka to Bavarian roasted ham hock (Bayrischer Schweinshaxe) in Munich.

And let’s not forget black vinegar pork trotters (ju geok cho), the ultimate comfort food when you’re feeling run down or battling a cold on rainy days.

All delicious. But a proper pork knuckle sandwich? I never even knew such a thing existed.

Which is why the Pork Knuckle Sourdough Sandwich at The Willow is such a pleasant surprise. The meat is velvety and gelatinous, an utterly luxurious mouth-feel with every bite.

Pair this with a side of crunchy, fried-to-order onion rings, and you have something more than just a meal: it’s an entire experience.

And the experience, if you’re wondering, is warm and welcoming. Run by the husband-and-wife team of Gary and Katherine, The Willow is a cosy café in Taman Gembira (better known to local residents as Happy Garden).

Their menu offers fuss-free fusion fare and local favourites; expect yuzu pork belly don and garlic shoyu beef pasta sharing the limelight with Hainanese chicken chops and nasi lemak with prawn petai sambal.

Given my lack of familiarity with it, I’m guessing the aforementioned pork knuckle sandwich falls under the former category.

To be fair, Gary didn’t ask “Do you want a knuckle sandwich?” but rather pointed it out on their menu to us.

With more social media friendly dishes such as their Porkynara (essentially a carbonara, albeit with more pork) and their oceanic Seafood Salada, it’s easy to overlook the somewhat ungainly sounding Pork Knuckle Sourdough Sandwich.

Which would be a pity, because it’s a showstopper; the savoury notes and decadent texture a pleasurable punch in the taste buds (rather than one in the face, thankfully!).

Given the hot, hazy weather recently, we quenched our thirst with refreshing drinks pairing longan with watermelon or coffee with citrus. Iced kombucha hit the spot too.

Another popular item is their Aloha Burger, with a house-made pork patty (not the frozen, pre-made variety), fresh orange wedge and tangy dressing. For beef lovers, their Steak Sourdough Sandwich will satisfy.

But given three of the four orders are variations on sandwiches and burgers, we’d be accused of being boring if we went for more bread or buns.

Instead our last pick is The Willow’s signature Mamak Pasta. Traditionally, our Malaysian mee goreng mamak uses yellow egg noodles; here they stir fried pasta with plenty of tofu and vegetables.

One of us remarked that the crunchy bits of fried mushrooms reminded him of tempura batter. That is, if tempura was tossed with a savoury, sweet and spicy sauce. A quick squeeze of calamansi (limau kasturi) brightens everything.

The Willow is the quintessential neighbourhood haven, a place for neighbours, families and friends to catch up over simple, good food. What more do we need, really?

The Willow

74, Jalan Rukun 4,

Taman Gembira (Happy Garden), KL.

Open Mon-Fri (except Tue closed) 11am–9pm, Sat & Sun 11am–9:30pm

Phone: 010-221 1032

IG: https://www.instagram.com/thewillow_happygarden/

FB: https://www.facebook.com/thewillowhappygarden/

For more food fables and café chronicles, visit Life for Beginners.

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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