KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 9 — When chef and restaurateur Ameer Alzalek started Leen’s, he was selling hummus and traditional Syrian dishes at pop-ups and for home delivery during the pandemic. 

A dedicated following formed, and by the end of 2022, Leen’s had a brick-and-mortar home in TTDI. 

A year later, S.A.J. Bistronomy, its sister restaurant, opened basically next door. 

Then, in 2024, Leen’s was awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide, a recognition it has held onto since. 

After spending a decade in the industry, with stints at hotels in Penang and Langkawi, and at the now-closed Ember, Alzalek has become an established presence in four short years. 

Alzalek seems incapable of sitting still and resting on his laurels; he was involved in opening the Japanese-Levantine fusion spot Zaataru last year, though it was ultimately short-lived.

His newest venture, Bab Shawarma and Grill, is much more straightforward, and just down the road from Leen’s and S.A.J. 

Unlike the polished-yet-casual settings of the other two restaurants, Bab is styled very much like a fast-food restaurant, from the bright orange colour palette to the ordering system. 

You order, pay and wait for your number to be called — just like at Ronald’s place.

I’ve always been sceptical about chicken shawarma because I’ve yet to try one where the chicken isn’t dry. 

Even the ones I’ve enjoyed are practically slathered in toum to make up for it. I hoped to be proven wrong at Bab, but the Chicken Shawarma Wrap (RM16.90) was unfortunately more of the same — dry and slightly underwhelming, filled with chicken and garlic sauce and little else. 

A shame, because the flatbread, like the flatbreads at Leen’s and S.A.J., is wonderful.

Much, much better was the Beef Shawarma Wrap (RM18.80), filled with nutty tahini, onions, tomatoes and parsley. 

The thin slices of beef had warm pockets of fat, which paired well with the cool, fresh accompaniments. 

My favourite bite ended up being something of a guilty pleasure: Shawarma Steak Fries (RM34.80). 

Despite the name, it has little to do with the French bistro classic, and has much more in common with the Australian takeaway classic, the halal snack pack.

It’s a simple pile of kebab meat and thick-cut chips, topped with a bevy of sauces — usually chilli, garlic and barbecue.

It’s a staple for many Malaysians who studied in Australia, so much so that a local franchise has opened. 

Bab’s take on the tried and tested idea is a different animal, which sees a pile of crispy fries topped with beef shawarma meat, tahini mayo, lemon garlic butter and a generous snowfall of parmesan cheese. 

There’s no way this is good for you, but it’s so good you can afford not to care for a brief moment.

Which, in a way, sums up the whole experience. 

Bab isn’t trying to be Leen’s, and it isn’t trying to be S.A.J. either. It’s shawarma and fries, and it doesn’t aim to be more than that. 

After the more refined and ambitious concepts, making it onto the Michelin Guide, sometimes playing the hits is what really works.

After all, crowd-pleasers are just that: crowd-pleasing.

Bab Shawarma & Grill

78, Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi, 

Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

Open daily, 12pm-11.30pm

Tel: 011-1151 8706

Instagram: @bab__kl

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau to indulge in more shawarma and fries.