KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 27 — A little under three years ago, Sushinosuke, a Japanese casual omakase restaurant originating from Shinbashi — Tokyo’s salaryman capital, teeming with izakaya and bars galore — debuted a Malaysian outpost at Pinnacle Petaling Jaya. 

Armed with slick social media and none of the traditionally stiff omakase formality, its 20-course omakase menu won many over, with its RM388++ price tag proving compelling in a market where most omakase menus hover between RM500 and RM800. It was a hit. 

In early 2025, they branched out with Kappa Kaisen Izakaya in Bukit Damansara, expanding beyond sushi to include classic grilled and fried izakaya fare. 

Now, they’ve opened Penko Sushi & Grill Izakaya in the heart of Kuala Lumpur city centre.

The new space occupies the first floor of a refurbished heritage building in Medan Pasar, which it shares with a brand-new outlet of Hock Kee Kopitiam as well as the Creador Foundation. 

It marks their largest opening to date, bringing together three concepts under one roof: a sushi counter, an izakaya and a yakitori grill.

As you enter, the room leads past a handful of tables to the main grill, offering a front-row seat to the action. 

To the right sits the sushi counter, though the almost concerningly attentive staff are quick to point out that you can order anything from anywhere, thanks to the magic of QR codes. 

Loud laughter and the clinking of beer glasses revealed several private rooms within, of which I counted three.

Starting your meal can go in several directions, from small, cold appetisers like the crunchy, tangy Shark Soft Bone with Plum (RM12) to the Amberjack Sesame Carpaccio (RM38), where buttery slices of kanpachi are dressed in a nutty sesame sauce. 

We were not necessarily in the mood for sushi, but the Engawa & Tuna Sushi Taco (RM22) was difficult to resist: luscious, fatty fish over a bed of rice, all held together in a crisp seaweed shell.

But most of these, along with fried items like the Aji Katsu Fry (RM14), a butterflied, breaded and fried horse mackerel that is crisp, savoury and ideal with drinks, are also available on the menu at Kappa Kaisen Izakaya. 

The distinctive offerings here come from the grill — specifically, the yakitori. All the usual parts are represented, including thigh (RM8), soft bone (RM8), skin (RM8), liver (RM8) and heart (RM8), each available either simply seasoned with salt or brushed with tare. 

But it is the meatball (RM10), or tsukune, glazed with tare and dipped into a luxuriant raw egg yolk (an additional RM2), that steals the spotlight, alongside the satisfyingly bouncy tail (RM8), or bonjiri. 

Still hungry and in search of something more soul-soothing to close the meal? Penko’s Chicken Broth Ramen (RM24) is a surprisingly strong contender; its creamy, gentle broth a balm on the palate after a night of salt and alcohol. 

It comes topped with torched chicken chashu and noodles with a satisfying chew.

Penko is not the most revolutionary Japanese opening you will encounter, nor does it attempt to replicate the cramped, raucous intimacy of a back-alley Shinbashi izakaya. 

That is clearly not the brief. Instead, it offers something more polished and accommodating: a large, bright and comfortably spacious setting that works well for bigger groups, client entertaining or even a date that calls for something a little more put-together.

The food is good, the service attentive to a fault, and the menu broad without being overly challenging. 

For diners who prefer familiar Japanese flavours executed competently, in a setting that feels lively but not chaotic, it fits the bill neatly.

Penko Sushi & Grill Izakaya

Level 1, 11 & 15, 

Medan Pasar, Kuala Lumpur.

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-11.30pm

Tel: 012-815 5504

Instagram: @penko.izakaya

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and occasionally self-deprecating humour.