MELAKA, Nov 6 — There’s something almost lyrical about Malaccan red yeast rice and honey glazed char siew — that lacquered, crimson sheen that glows under the midday sun, the aroma of caramelised pork fat mingling with smoke and sugar.

For those of us who grew up in Melaka, this isn’t merely food; it’s a memory. It’s the scent of the logs of char siew hanging from the hooks, the sound of knives rhythmically chopping through glistening slabs of meat.

Gu Zhao Wei Restaurant, tucked along a lively stretch of Kota Laksamana (closer to Jonker Street than one might realise but far enough that no tourists come traipsing here), channels that sense of familiarity.

Known to locals as Kota Gu Zhao Wei, it is neither flashy nor fussy — just a humble neighbourhood shop where families gather, office workers pop in for lunch, and regulars know the best time to arrive is before the roast runs out.

The two of us came on a warm afternoon, quite unsure if there would be anything left for us. On busy days, the trays are often cleared before noon.

Fortunately during our visit, the display of roast meats hasn’t been emptied... yet.

The owner, a friendly middle-aged man with an easy smile, told us that it was a slow day. The previous day, he had sold out early; bulk orders are common, apparently.

He had taken over the business only a year ago, he shared, inheriting not just the name, but also the recipes of the older gentleman who had run the shop for 12 years before him.

What he continues to serve is the sort of char siew that rewards patience. Each cut of pork is carefully marinated, then roasted till the glaze catches the light like burnt toffee.

The latter makes all the difference here. Made with red yeast rice and honey, the glaze gives the pork its trademark mahogany colour and a depth of flavour that’s at once savoury, sweet and faintly tangy.

Unlike the fattier cuts of glossy char siew found in Kuala Lumpur, Gu Zhao Wei’s version leans towards balance — neither too lean nor too fatty, each piece tender yet structured.

Quite honestly, it tastes like caramelised pork, char siew candy, if you will.

The current owner mentions that he adjusts his recipe daily depending on what the butcher brings: shoulder, belly, tenderloin or a mix. This flexibility with ingredients is why you need experience; recipes alone do not result in deliciousness.

The siew yoke, or roasted pork belly, is equally worthy of attention. Its skin crackles beautifully beneath the teeth, while the layers below remain juicy and fragrant.

A side of curry gravy rounds out the meal, rich yet unexpectedly light. The owner confides that he uses evaporated milk in place of coconut milk, a choice that yields a creaminess without heaviness.

It’s the sort of curry that begs to be spooned over rice. The owner keeps asking if we’d like more. Naturally, we oblige.

The sides are as humble as they come — a stir-fry of cabbage and a simple, home-style omelette — yet their quiet presence completes the meal.

To quench our thirst, some homemade barley water to beat the heat. The owner checks if we want it without sugar, already guessing our answer. Simple, nourishing and refreshing.

At Gu Zhao Wei, there is really only one signature dish — but what a dish it is. 

The red yeast rice and honey char siew is straightforward fare, sure, unburdened by pretense. And perhaps that is what makes this little shop in Kota Laksamana special.

In an age where menus stretch endlessly and flavours chase novelty, Gu Zhao Wei remains content to do one thing well. Sometimes, one perfect plate is all you need.

Gu Zhao Wei Restaurant

17, Jalan Kota Laksamana 1/2, 

Taman Kota Laksamana, Melaka.

Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-8pm; Sun closed

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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