KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 17 — Change is inevitable but with hawkers, it may mean a complete shutdown, which is what fans of Uncle Lee’s Hokkien mee feared when he had to vacate his Taman Kok Lian premises at the end of September. 

Unsure about his future without a permanent place to park his stall, Uncle Lee toyed with the idea of retiring but Lady Luck was with him, as he found a spot in Kedai Kopi Seng Wai at Jinjang Selatan. 

He’s back in business behind his trusty wok darkened with time, skilfully wielding it over a hot charcoal fuelled fire.

Uncle Lee, or Lee Heng See, polished his frying skills at Kim Lian Kee, reputedly the pioneer of Hokkien mee, where the business started back in 1927 at a tin roof shack in the heart of Petaling Street.

With a total of 53 years of experience, he left to strike out on his own about 13 years ago, moving around the vicinity of Jinjang and Jalan Ipoh.  

What sets his Hokkien mee apart from all the other stalls is the sauce coats the smooth yellow strands (he prefers the flatter type) similar to a true blue carbonara rather than pooling on the plate. 

This requires skill in handling the wok and fire to ensure the sauce combines with the noodles well while of course, infusing the noodles with a smoky flavour. 

Even its colour is slightly different, not as glossy black like others, signifying it’s not just dominated by dark soy sauce that can often leave a sweeter aftertaste on the mouth.

Flavour is built in with the use of dried flounder fish powder that enhances the braising liquid for the noodles. 

Uncle Lee also brews his own siong tong, by simmering chicken bones, pork bones and even prawn shells throughout the day. 

As you enjoy your plate of Hokkien mee, you will notice that aside from the usual sliced pork and prawns there is an uncommon ingredient namely pig liver. 

Once used extensively in Hokkien mee, it’s almost gone from the modern versions of these fried noodles, perhaps banished with changing tastes or costs. 

For many, much emphasis is placed on the liberal use of fried lard croutons to enhance the flavour of the noodles but here, Uncle Lee uses just a few croutons scattered inside the noodles to a good effect as each piece is fluffy and not over fried till hard, flooding your mouth with its fragrance like treasure once you find a piece. 

Last but not least, even the sambal served on the side is fragrant with chillies and belacan, enhancing the flavour of the fried noodles rather than adding a layer of spiciness. 

For RM12, it’s a plate well worth seeking out, especially when other places serve such dismal plates not even worth the calories. 

I must admit I have not gone beyond the Hokkien mee here but I have been told by friends that his moonlight hor fun and Cantonese fried noodles are also superb. 

Bring the whole family or your gang of foodies and you can feast on all the noodles here.

With no disciple to take on his frying skills, it’s a matter of time before this Hokkien mee master may need to hang up his apron so don’t dawdle or else this old taste of Hokkien mee will be gone forever. 

Kuala Lumpur Petaling Street Charcoal Fried Hokkien Mee

Kedai Kopi Seng Wai

3, Jalan Jambu Gajus, 

Jinjang Selatan, Kuala Lumpur.

Open: 11am to 9pm. Closed every Tuesday.

Tel: 012-2957279

Facebook: @KLPetalingStreetHokkienMee

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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